What do i need to change a wheel?

THAT left a mark!

 

Saw an international with 8. I didn't think there was such a thing til I saw it.

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If you don't know what you are doing, what makes you more qualified to mess with it than a shop that does tires every day?

 

Well it's not really rocket science changing a tire. Make sure everything is nice and clean and that the bead is evenly around the rim, take your time and get it right..... I am in OP's shoes here, saw a torque multiplier that I didn't really care for, first I belive it was Chinese, and second they wanted almost $800 for it. Now I know exactly what to get so it's only a matter of time here before I never pay again to patch a nail hole or rotate the tires myself.. Hell I'll even save big bucks mounting my own new tires now.. My only other question would be.. The big pry bar they use to get a tire over a rim.. Or would the 4' crow bar I already have do the trick?

 

Your better off getting a tire spoon. they are available at most truck stores. I got a bead blaster on e-bay years ago for $100.00 & free shipping. crow bars will work, but a spoon, makes it much easier & faster. I also have a dismount tool, bought new & cost $200.00 it is not the easiest or the best, the the cost was far less that the nice ones, & it works every time.

 

A pair of 30" tire spoons is all I ever use.

 

To those who were asking I have the Central Tools 6380 4:1 torque multiplier.

Takes a 1/2" drive input and output is 3/4" drive

If you look at my pic you see there is a torque wrench also.

You need to know a little math because the torque multiplier loses up to 10-15% applied torque. So you can't just figure 100 lb/ft on the torque wrench will equal 400 off the torque multiplier.

If I remember right I set the torque wrench at 126 lb/ft to do my stud piloted tractor wheels and 136 lb/ft to do my hub piloted trailer wheels.

Stud piloted calls for 400 - 450 lb/ft
126 x 4 = 504 - 15% = 428.4 lb/ft

Hub piloted call for 450 - 500 lb/ft
136 x 4 = 544 - 15% = 462.4 lb/ft

Not an exact science but it works for me. Never had one nut come loose and they always come off real nice when it's changing time.

 

First of all you need to download this booklet from OSHA on changing truck tires.
http://www.tireindustry.org/uploadedFiles/Training_and_Education/OSHA_ChartBooklet_2011.pdf

It shows you how to hold the irons, etc. and safety concerns. People have died working on tires.

And you need 2 of these tire irons
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/ken34645.html

and a pail of lubricant
[ame]http://www.amazon.com/MurphyS-Tire-Tube-Mounting-Compound/dp/B003A1R8FG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1330320712&sr=8-3[/ame]


and one of these clip-on air chucks.
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/mils698.html

You don't want to be holding the chuck when the tire blows up!!!!!!!

I use Michelin and BF Goodrich tires and have never needed a bead seater but you might need one if you can't get yours to inflate.

 

I thought this was bead seater?