What do ya'll think about buying a another truck right now?

What kind of work do you have lined up? Seems like if you had good enough work lined up buying a replacement truck would be a no brainer.

 

Yeah I was leased for a long time. It's a lot of profit off the top. I know what I think about it but it doesn't really matter. Good luck whatever you decide.

 

TBH = nerd or gamer speek for "to be honest" its a lazy habit i picked up as a kid that ive used for so long i doubt ill ever get rid of it lol.

for the rest every engine manufacturer offers diffrent rebuild kit levels. A platinium cat engine kit for example more or less strips the block and rebuilds pretty much everything. This link explains it pretty well. Cat® Engine Overhaul & Rebuild Kits | Shop by Engine Model. If you do a platinium rebuild the engine is going to be about as close to like new as posible without doing a full swap. A bronze kit will give you the very basic parts, silver has better and so on. And you get with cat at least a very good warranty if not the best im the industry. I think it goes to...48 months? Not sure what the detroit equivlent is. But any good weeny (freightliner logo looks like a weeny so its a teaseing joke among some drivers) dealer will be able to let you know.

Some costs from my 579 to give you an idea of what a rebuild for your truck could be.

5th wheel 3500 unless the rail is shot which is rare. Less if its just a plate and springs.

Diffs are around $10K for a new set.

Rebuild transmission is 8ish k swap to 18 is 15k

Rebuilds start at 10k for an in frame and go to 40k for an out of frame depending on whats needed (inframe vs out of frame = engine removed entitely or done still "in the frame")

Emissions drop clean and full rebuild are between 5k and 40k depending on whats broken. 40k=entire system, every single sensor, the tank, wireing harness and EGR are all shot. 5k is a standard rebuild give or take.

Wireing harness is a max of $15K and could be as low as $500 if nothing but plugs needs doing.

Brakes are around $1500-3500 to do the whole truck including drums depending on brand and model, its a LOT more for discs though. As much as 10K based off my old trailer.

Front end rebuild (leafs. Drag link, ball joints, tie rod ect) is about $5000

Clutch and flywheel are around $2500-4500 depending on if thats all thats wrong.

As i said you can go pretty deep into the rabbit hole but even a nose to tail rebuild is going to come in for half or less of what a new truck costs. But its still an old truck so stuff will fail, stuff will break, problems will happen. But if your handy most should be fairly easy to do yourself and not too expensive.

Edit: Anyway going to hit the hay so a final thought here. I wont tell you which way is correct just give you info to make a better informed decision with the caviat im a pete and cat dude (and i guess paccar at this point <insert ban worthy string of curseing here>). You know your business better then me. But one note i WILL make is we are going into a downturn. Could even be a full blown depression, we are also coming up on an election year with near always see a post election slump in volume.

A newer truck MAY have less issues and a brand new truck almost certainly will have less or none. But both are going to be a big up front cost and an ongoing long term cost. And if anything does go wrong your going to need to support that cost while doing the extra costs in a downturn with limited freight and heavy competition and the very real posibility you may lose your lease just because volume falls below capacity.

If you fix what you have and dont go into debt, absolute worst case you can park your rig and walk away to come back later without debt even if it costs "more" long term. Which gives you many more options and a lot more time and flexability to respond to everything going up like paper in a volcano.

 

So let me get this right ….. you have a 2016 Crapcadia with 815k on the clock with truck payments and Your asking if you should buy a 2019 Crapcadia with 480k on the clock for about the same amount of money you paid for that Crapcadia 2.5 years ago because you noticed Crapcadiia prices are lower right now ?
What are you gaining. Because 2.5 years from now if your lucky your going to be back on here asking the same question again cause your still buying a well used Crapcadia at 480k
Well like they say that’s Crapcadia life

 

Well you asked opinions so here is mine.

If the truck is running well, pulled well, and not burning oil, then why not baseline the OA and watch it?

The dyno is to tell you where on the HP spectrum the engine is at, if it is less than 70% of the rated HP (assuming you did not "tune" the engine), then you need to act, first with an overhead and then to the fuel system and moving down the list.

The blowby test tells you what condition the rings are, burning oil doesn't always happen with bad rings.