What kind of ac compressor is this, need to replace it? (pics)

134 is increasing in price because they have a new refrigerant out, 1234YF. Just found out last week. Thank you EPA.

Refrigerant Transition & Environmental Impacts | US EPA

 

I used to carried my vacuum and gauges For a while. Really not needed. You can change a compressor, charge it up, without vacuuming it down. Best to change lines quickly, on a low humidity day. But if it’s been open from a broken line, or a bad leak, it doesn’t matter. Helps to have a new dryer, to get moisture out. The vacuum can be done later, at home. I personally would save the dryer, till I get home, right before vacuuming. I’ve vacuumed my system, changed the dryer, and vacuum again. Probably a waste of time. The a/c may not work quite as good because of air left in the system, displacing Freon. Barely noticeable. The vacuum creates heat, that boils moisture out. It doesn’t really suck anything out of the system, except air. The negative vacuum put on the system also helps to suck the first can of Freon in. The compressor needs a bit to make it engage. Vacuums good for checking for leaks. It should hold a vacuum for at least 30 minutes. I’ve run them for years, without pulling a vacuum. As long as there’s enough oil, it won’t cause rust in the system. The dryer gets the moisture. Only problem is some air is mixed in, diluting the Freon. The main reason a new compressor fails, is from debris in the discharge line. It needs to be taken off flushed if contaminated. If the condensor gets contaminated, it needs to be replaced. Can’t be flushed, since most aren’t a closed loop. There a header/fin design. The newer dryers last a lot longer than the old ones. Some even have a window that changes color when bad. I’ve reused one like that a few times. Not sure I trust the idea though. They’re cheap enough. Shops often flush lines, replace condenser and expansion valve, or orifice, along with the failed compressor. Mainly to avoid Customer returns. That’s why it costs $2000 at the shop. Replace everything mentality.

 

It was $5 now it’s $8 a can.

 

Rule of thumb, 30 minutes of vacuum per 1lb in system. Longer you get in a deeper vacuum, the more moisture you boil out and removes air which is key to cold A/C. Change your vacuum pump oil often.

 

I was buying 30lb for about $75 last year, was $250 this year.

 

That’s a good shop. They once did a wheel seal with new brake shoes on my trailer within an hour. Didn’t even get a nap! Lol

 

Go to harbor freight for the tools and practice by fixing the ac on a small car first, trucks are just scaled up versions of that.

I started by learning on the truck, that was much more expensive

 

I don’t pay attention to that stuff anymore. used to sell all refrigerants back in 05-08. I remember when R-22 was starting to be replaced by 410A. The HVAC contractors were hoarding it before the big price increase. Sold and delivered a lot of it.