I have a 2000 century class with an n14. The guy I purchased it from had had his fab shop build a 18 foot box on the back in place of the sleeper and where the kingpin hitch would be. I have since converted it into an RV / toterhome (winter project). They did a really solid job on the box but I believe the wheel wells do not allow nearly enough travel. Anytime it is in a situation that puts a lot of weight on one side or on one axle they bottom out on the wheel wells.
Currently there is just over 2 inches of clearance above the tires and from what I can see the suspension stops have a lot more than that. I think that I could maybe get an additional 2 inches out of the wheel well area before I would have to cut into the floor of the interior. The question for you all is what could I do on the suspension end that would help this. Is there any way to lift it up some without causing drive line issues or breaking the bank. Is there any kind of valve or something that could be ran to raise / lock the air ride suspension up during situations that would cause this? (It's not during normal road driving).
I am not about fixing something that is not the problem but if there is a simpler solution I would like to explore it. I have never owned a truck before so this stuff is kind of new to me.
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What options are their for adjusting the suspension height on a century class?
Discussion in 'Freightliner Forum' started by mcurcio1989, Apr 1, 2013.
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There is a leveler valve with an adjustment rod on the air suspension but it has to be set exactly right for the driveline to perform properly and not put the drive shaft in a bind. You might try a dealer and maybe they can make adjustments for you. On a regular tractor they have a special tool and it takes just a few minutes to fix. Being that you have a permanent load on it they might be able to help by allowing more air in the bags.
If that doesn't work, enlarging the wheel wheels would be your only option I would think. Maybe smaller tires?
Doesn't that TV give you a stiff neck?
Pretty cool set up! -
You can raise it up with the leveler vavle drive line wont be an issue but bag might. Normally i can fit 4 fingers onto the bottom base plate where the bag moves up and down. dont go more than 5. after 5 you take a risk of the bag sliding over the base and ripping.......
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Okay, there is a dealer on my way home from work so I figured if the folks on here didn't have any ideas I'd stop by there. There pretty good guys from what I have seen so I think they'd be willing to help.
Thinking out loud, my concern with more air permanently is that it will give a really rough ride in the back there.
Yeah when we first put the tv in I was nervous about that but it actually isn't bad at all. We wanted it to be above the windows and there is a loft / bunk area around the top that is hard to see in that picture (its edge is where the lights are). We wanted to make it so you could watch the tv from up there as well. -
I stopped by the dealer and he confirmed that there should be between 2 3/8 and 2 7/16 inch of travel from the axle to the stop in an at rest position. He said that the way they would install a fender is to let out the dump valve and then set the fender 2.5" above the tire in that position (so maybe 5" of clearance in the wheel well.
In an at rest position I have 3" of travel to the stop and with the dump valve all out it sits 1" from the stop (the tires are sitting on the wheel well). Without a whole lot of work I should be able to get an additional 2" and then if I cut into the floor I can probably snag another 1" without causing a big problem which should put me in a really good range and I may be able to get by without even cutting into the floor.
The question for you all know is does anyone know the procedure for lowering the ride pressure / height. I am 9/16 out of range now and personally I think it should be lowered 5/8" maybe even 3/4" to give a proper ride for such a light load in what is now a passenger compartment (smoother ride). -
The driveline will of course get out of synch with the air ride either too far up or too far down. U joints are designed to operate at a certain angle without vibration. Run into this all the time with off road vehicles that have had drive line swaps. It would take more air than the leveller valve could give it to pop a bag in my experience. Vibrations though? You bet.
Measuring by fingers? Hmmm, too generic for me, seeing as one persons fingers can be twice the size of the next persons.
OP, you were in fact given accurate advise in the first post or two. The ride height is specific to the truck, and it looks like the dealer set you right with the measurement he gave you. That is on the front drive axle too IIRC.
You can easily adjust this yourself with a wrench and 5 minutes, or pay them to do it.
You can also try to raise it a little and then take it for a test drive to see if there are vibrations etc. Think I would do that before hacking the floor up.
I made mine adjustable though. I removed the rod that goes from the axle to the valve, and welded a turn buckle into it, so I can just pop off the top, turn it in or out, then pop it back on. I haul oversize loads, and the height can bite me in the rear at times, so I lower the truck and trailer ride heights when required, then put them back to normal when empty.
Martin -
You want to be careful here, like they said. The shaft angle on my Mack has to be less than 3 degrees from the crank to the rear drive. That's not much and almost invisible to a naked eye. I bought a degree wheel ( magnetic ) just for the job.
You cannot soften the suspension without adding slop and body roll. The coach will be difficult to handle.
The air ride is supposed to be set at X empty and when you load it then air is added for self leveling. You can modify the rod if you want but my first paragraph applies.
This is an engineered dimension . You can operate outside of this number but you risk expensive damage.
Good luck -
If it is not readily available on the net would you mind giving me some pointers on how to adjust the ride height? Is it simply a matter of adjusting the length of the bar on the lv'sHm well my concern with going is higher is that it is going to give me a stiffer ride and it is already above the manufacturers recommendation. My biggest concern is that I am not comfortable with a vehicle that bottoms out on the wells before it hits the stop. Say a bag pops or anything in the system causes it to loose pressure to the bags than I have a 20000lb immovable rock essentially. I plan on using this truck to launch my boat and that means going down boat ramps which are always going to out a lot of pressure on the middle axle and I can't have it grabbing on the wells everytime I go down a ramp. I don't think I will actually have to cut into the floor but if I do it is underneath permanently installed couches so it really is not a big deal as it will be concealed
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In reply to the very last post - I agree and that is why I want to take it into freightliners recommended range I am currently 5/8 above where they recommend with 3 inches of travel. I believe that whoever made the box put it on and said oh #### this is to low so they lifted it using the suspension. I want to make this so that it can operate as freightliner intended.I think I may have confused you all. I in no way intend to raise this. The floor is about 3 inches thick so I can cut two out of it without a lot of work and then maybe get an additional inch if need be by cutting into in a concealed location above the wheel well. I actually want to lower the suspension to get it into freightliners range
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you take a risk of the bag sliding over the base and ripping......
Seen a cat with a Century do just that........didn't believe in maintenance so torque arms were wore out. Put his truck 90 degrees to trailer pulling a you-ee and trl was loaded........rear drive walked sideways and ripped the bags smooth off. Boom! ...every pound of air was gone and he was stretched across the parking lot unable to move.
Yeah, I helped him out......
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