What would you do???

Just run it, I went like 80 miles a last year when my rad popped, just made a huge mess but the tank still had about 1/2” in it when I got to the shop

 

Is that fitting made into the hose ? If not cut out split and jam good hose back onto the barb if there is enuff slack . If has to be patched , electrical tape wrapped around 10 or 12 times tight and radiator clamps 2 or 3 butted up to one another and tighten . Would be best if hose is dry when applying tape .

 

last Labor Day I was extremely worried about the tax man after having a great year to date

October, on my way back home from the west coast, a 4 wheeler lost control and crashed into my trailer, totaled it

after getting the load swung onto an associates trailer, on the way to a stop, the rad on the truck popped, ran the truck to the shop and stole a spare truck from a family member

spare truck was newer then mine and associates, ABS ran constant not off brake lights, abs computer shorted out, locked up brakes, I got to use a fire extinguisher for the first time for real

3 weeks down time and I get back to work, and the truck starts building oil, cracked head on a motor with about 200k on an inframe. Another missed week

Started digging myself back out until about 8 weeks ago and the truck got hit head on….

you need a plan A, B, C, D, E and more to make it.

 

Buy a roll or two of this stuff just to keep along in the truck. I have bailed myself out twice with it now, once, turbo return line blew, and another time, I had my truck air lines a whisker loose, and wore a hole in one where it scuffed on my deck plate. Ran for a week holding 120 psi with that tape.

 

You will probably have alot of those, so you want to own your own truck moments, almost every day is like that sometimes. Tomorrow I get to mount 8 new drives and replace a block heater that popped last year and I never needed it after that, I should have replaced it long before it got cold out, it's been on the list of things to replace but that list usually grows weekly and rarely gets shorter. I have had a couple different opportunities to return to being a company man, and have turned them down, and probably will for the foreseeable future, there are some days that.... or alot of days that being an owner suck, but there is also enough days where everything falls together and it all works out and keeps us in it.

 

from a previous post it read like you're taking the truck to a shop for the repair. this is a repair you can do yourself. the tools will cost less than labor and you'll have them for the future. start thinking like an owner and learn your truck. Cummins are easy to work on and they'll give you all the information you need. sign up at quickserve with your engine serial number for all the documents relating to your engine.
sign up at repair link ( Online Parts Ordering ) with your vin number for all the international drawings and part numbers. I rarely buy from my closest dealer (Rush), usually paste the part number into google and find nos or alternate vendors.

Relying on shops is the easiest ( laziest ) way to go broke

 

Buy one of every sensor and carry on the truck. Some sensors are duplicate so only need one (temp, differential pressure)
Cracked versions of Cummins Insite can be found online. I choose to pay the license fee. the software updates come out several times a year

 

That’s not how the coolat system works, you don’t run out of coolant and BAM a blown engine. First your coolant level starts to get low and your temp starts to rise, all this happens relatively slow. Just watch your temp gauge and you’ll be fine.

 

Do you have a manual engine fan switch? If so, remove the lid from the coolant tank and cover it with a plastic bag to keep it closed but allow it to breathe. Drive with the engine fan turned on, and monitor the engine temperature carefully. This should significantly reduce the leak since the coolant system will no longer be under pressure.