What you use to separate your dual wheel when they are stuck together ?

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by sunsation288, Mar 15, 2014.

  1. that65

    that65 Light Load Member

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    Jan 16, 2012
    Lincoln,Ne.
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    I'm not trying to bust you chops, and no I bye far don't know every thing
     
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  3. GrapeApe

    GrapeApe Road Train Member

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    2,211
    Jan 7, 2013
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    Here's unrelated anti-sieze tip. The gray never seize graphite stuff works great on exhaust manifolds. Wipe it on thin with a rag, start the car/truck, it'll smoke like crazy for a while. Once it bakes on, the manifold will look like new cast iron for years. I did it on my 31 Buick 10 years ago and it still looks like brand new manifold. I've done this on several antique car restorations and it works great.

    Another one is to put a thin wipe inside chrome Harley pipes as far as you can reach with your finger. It'll smoke a bit when you start it, but bakes to a protective coating by the head and they wont turn blue.

    Oh, back to the topic. I've been a mechanic for 25 years, I've always used it on the hub tabs and studs, just a dab. I've never had a wheel come loose. Torque specs are for new clean dry threads. But, put nothing on them and the will rust. Rust absorbs torque, even if you can spin the on by hand, the irregular surface increases friction when tightening them. A little anti-seize makes for more consistent clamping forces after sever R&R's.

    The best anti-seize I've used is a product call Thread Eze Ultra
     
    that65 Thanks this.
  4. tw1005tx

    tw1005tx Light Load Member

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    Feb 24, 2011
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    Also the torque value is about 30% less with oil (they turn easer), anti seize probably same. I see them use anti seize on off road trk's at the potash mines because of the corrosive environment On road trk's its different, its a judgment thing sure don't won't them falling off.
     
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