Well you were right it seems. I checked it into the shop this afternoon and they had never heard of taking that box/cover in front of the radar off. And they (both mechanics) said that it's not "just a cover" and that it's a safety feature for the radar.
We will see what happens. I told them that they cannot just turn off the code and recalibrate the system because that has not worked the past 2 times. We will see what happens and what they attempt to do.
When to move on from a company due to constant breakdowns?
Discussion in 'Questions From New Drivers' started by BeHereNow97, Dec 20, 2021.
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maybe LTL is more your cup of tea.
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I tried linehaul as well and I can't go to sleep at 10:00am or 11:00am in the morning and sleep until 7:00pm at night. My body felt wrecked each and every day that I went through linehaul training (I never made it out of linehaul training because I knew I couldn't handle the sleep schedule). Night time driving and going to bed at around 5:00am or 6:00am is fine. Going to bed at 11:00am is not fine, lol.
I'de be willing to give LTL another shot if I could get a daytime linehaul run or at least a linehaul run that ended around 5 in the morning or something like that, before the sun came up. I would give P&D a shot in a smaller town like a Davenport, Iowa or a Sioux Falls, South Dakota or something like that. Actually I was speaking to an Old Dominion P&D driver from Greensboro, NC several weeks ago and he said they were only working 45 - 50 hour work weeks! That actually sounds like heaven to me only working 50 hours or less per week!
So I guess if I could find a P&D job that would work me 50 hours or less in a 5 day period, I think I would be good to try P&D again. At those hours I would probably even volunteer to come in for a 6th day and do a daytime linehaul run or something. I work 70 hours doing OTR but that's spread out over a 7 day period. 59 - 63 hours in a 5 day period, not including commute, is absolutely brutal and it burned me out bad after 3 months.
And to be fair I do like OTR too, or I wouldn't have gone back to it after trying local LTL. I truly enjoy my trips out West and even in parts of the Midwest as well.Numb Thanks this. -
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Ask the tech (if they can’t diagnose and fix it they sure ain’t a mechanic ) how to clear the codes .
Clearing the codes might require a $35k Peterbilt computer or it could be as easy as on a car .
If you can clear the code every three weeks and roll on , that would work too .
Personally id remove the cover as soon as you get out of sight of the shopBeHereNow97 Thanks this. -
Yes, there is a plastic cover over the actual radar unit.
I once had to get towed out of something and the tow truck guy took that cover off so he could unplug the radar before towing me.
It was never replaced because he broke it in the process.
The cover is to protect the radar unit, but if either gets blocked by snow or dirt the radar will shut down.
Maybe it is better to have the radar unit in the clear so you can see it, and clean it off.
Have any of the people working on your truck taken off the cover to see if the radar unit was too dirty to function properly?
Because sometimes the simplest things escape those people.
They go by the 'book of fixes' instead of actually thinking about what might be wrong.
I had a chronic problem with one truck where it was leaking transmission fluid from the output shaft.
6 - SIX shops did the exact same thing. They replaced the output shaft bushing.
It was only when I told them that the bushing could not be the problem, it had to be a score on the race - so replacing the bushing would have no lasting effect.
Yup, that was the problem after all. They replaced the housing and the problem was fixed.
Once told where to look, they saw it.
But most of them have no real diagnostic abilities at all.BeHereNow97 Thanks this. -
Only idiots run on the limiter . This stupidity of setting cruise speed higher than pedal speed is dangerous. Guys will drive on cruise on dicey conditions causing jackknifes or worse yet hitting someone as they pass them. Find a real company
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I tried figuring out a way to post the email from the higher ups at Peterbilt saying to remove mine
But unless I add their cell numbers and emails it only looks like a cut and paste and I can’t put their personal info for obvious reasons -
Since most of the rest of the crowd has decided you're a fool, I'll give my $.02, we have 6 '20 and '21 KW's with the adaptive cruise, and all of them have had this issue at one time or another, in some cases it's self-corrected, in others it's still an intermittent issue. What's really fun is when it tries to kill the driver, I'm fairly certain mine has "self preservation" mode, it simply despises guardrails and construction cones, three different times I've almost been in wrecks when it suddenly jams on the brakes because it saw a construction barrel. That Pete can't fully fix the problem is not surprising, KW can't either. Fortunately my boss has all the software programs from KW on his laptop and has been able to go in and make adjustments to the system, he turned off 95% of the adaptive feature and all the tones, mine doesn't start slowing me until I'm under 1.8 seconds following distance. I'm especially thankful for winter slush when it freezes over and stops working.
Speed_Drums, Oxbow, Pamela1990 and 2 others Thank this. -
If it bothers you enough you should tell them how much it's affecting you and if they still mess around look for another job alot of place looking for drivers
Magoo1968 and Pamela1990 Thank this.
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