Where is everyone #5

6 tarped coils. Theyre standing firm at $1.59 a mile. So thats one good reason why im not gonna get any practice securing them. Another for the piss on that folder.

 

It's a sheet show up here in Erie too.. Still looking..

My start button has been giving me fits. Somedays it fires off 1 push, sometimes 3-4 before the starter rumbles to life. Well after about 50 pushes I gave up & got out a screwdriver. Cold start ~60hrs 35°-40°temps. Bout 5-6 seconds of holding it there.. Fun times..

 

I am your guy for this issue. Very rarely is a starting system fully shot the first time it acts up. Have you got tools and a multimeter? Is the solenoid on the starter drive motor or the firewall?

@singlescrewshaker


Think i have decided to full bounce home for my reload. These rates are BS. Next decision is stay trucking or go back logging.

 

Its 1230....


Guess I better show up to work or something

 

That's a garbage price.

 

Howdy from polk city Fla.

 

On the starter I believe. I jumped the 2 nuts where the red cables are going & the one below it & she cranked to life..

No multilimeter. I burned it up, but that's a story for another day.. LoL. Small socket set, box wrenches, bs. Like that on the truck..

Not ignoring you if you respond, but I'm headed south to Latrobe, PA. Got one going for KY..

 

Sometimes there is a small relay on the firewall, right under wiper motor too. FL steps the voltage down twice to engauge starter.

 

Ran into this 75 year old cat at my delivery this morning. Been driving since 1969. Said he got the virus felt like crap for 10 days and is back to normal now. This guy hardly even looked 55

 

That looks like a delco 42MT. The solenoid has an iron puck that runs toward a magnet to kick out the bendix drive and also a little button at the back with a copper washer that plunges into and bridges the two lugs. Theyre just copper carriage head bolts. the contact faces get arc'd over time. If they weld youll be in full start until she catches fire or you cut the circuit.

If the circuit is good from the battery to the key and the key to the solenoid.. Then look for a good ground continuity from the solenoid and starter body back to negative batt post. Iron ground paths suck. Chomp on jumper cables for temporary ground testing.

If those both check okay its probably that copper plunger inside the solenoid. Easy to clean up and flip around for now. If it was the starter motor youd get a slow crank. Click click click crank is usually a switching issue in the solenoid circuit. Pull those 3 small screws and remove solenoid from starter then take pic, scribe a lineup line, and take it apart. Youll get it once you see. Not hard unless its soldered.