Where is everyone #5

That's a neat idea with the rebar. Guess a guy just builds it and if he doesn't like it then sell the gate and make another one until it looks good.

 

Hey @singlescrewshaker, you east bound and down on 28 in IN? Was getting new tires on the truck in Frankfort, and thought I saw Peaches go by pulling a black dry van.

 

Understood, Just when and where to make the pickup. Straps or chains?

 

Lol
Ya sure did!!
Set'n over here at Pioneer Tipton kick'n off 45k lb of return beans..

Probably gonna be headed back west cross 28 here soon

 

Working on this a/c unit, ordered a new box and trying to get this 1 nut off inside. Shallow well to shallow because of the amount of stub sticking out, and deep well to long with a universal joint. Decided to drill a 1/2” hole in the back of the vent opening, made it quite easy to remove then….

 

Man it's freakin hot and steamy in Texas. Waitin to get loaded with some pipe. Guess we gonna be sittin here all afternoon

 

Exactly! Somebody will buy it.

 

@AModelCat pictures of the forge, twister, and the 1 piece I could get hold of from the ground. The rest of the pickets are on a pallet on top of the rack, I'll get them down at some point soon.

Simmonds brand I ordered from amazon. I've only used 2 burners so far. I wanted the depth more than anything.


That's a RR spike I was messing around with to turn into a steak flipper.


The picture is kinda fuzzy, but it just clamps in a vise. Other than the set screws, nuts, and bolts, everything came out of the scrap pile and I threw it together in an afternoon. I never dreamed it would work as good as it does.


This is the clamping end. The bottom set of bolt and set screw allow it to slide along the main tube. This allows for different lengths to be clamped. Everything with a jam nut on it is "permanently" set. The other bolts and set screws can be loosened to allow the clamp to move, or the bar stock to be put in and removed, without having to recheck everything. As the bar is twisted, it will dogleg where it transitions from straight to twisted, or where you change the rotation of the twist.

 

@AModelCat

This is the twisting end, it has about 1/2" of forward/backward travel. This allows for a little forgiveness on lengths. There are 4 sets of punch marks spaced around the circumference of the round pipe. These are 1/4 turn marks. I just draw a chalk line on the outer pipe, so I have a reference for counting rotations.


When I first started using this, I used a 24" pipe wrench to twist 1/2" solid bars and a 36" to twist 5/8" bars. All of them were twisted cold. Later, I got a 1" socket set, and the ratchet fits perfectly in the square hole. It makes 1/2" easier to twist. I have not tried 5/8" yet.
It is hollow, to allow the bar to be longer than the twister. Then it's a matter of a few measurements to make sure you index it correctly to move along the length.


This is clamping end of the rotating assembly. When using the punch marks for reference, the set screws at #1 and #2 are the only ones loosened. #3 and #4 don't get touched.


This was one that I alternated the rotation. I have some that are twisted right for 12", straight for 12" and twisted left for 12". Along with a 12" twist in the middle and straight on both ends. The sky is the limit with this thing.

 

Womble?