WHICH are the best batteries??

That would be a reasonable expectation to achieve and help you avoid unexpected failures. If you do a total assessment and maintenance on the starting/charging system every year, you will catch problems before they happen and you are in the wrong place for it to happen, in a jam.

 

The isolator only separates the batteries when being drained, they all charge at one rate determined by one regulator in a single alternator which isn't acceptable for the two types of batteries being used.

 

There is a light of half truths being thrown out there which kind of makes it hard to dispute...

I found this site that explains different types of batteries in common language (even I could understand...LOL )

http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Battery_FAQ.htm


I also found this bit of info...

• [h=2]Plate Size[/h]
  • Rechargeable lead acid batteries are classified in two categories. One type is starter batteries, used in automobiles, and the second type is deep cycle batteries, often used for recharging solar power systems. Car batteries or starter batteries have more lead plates than deep cycle types, but the plates are much thinner. Deep cycle batteries have fewer plates, but the plates are heavier and thicker. Marine batteries are hybrids and fall somewhere in between, similar to car batteries, but with slightly thicker plates.
    
    
  [h=2]Voltage[/h]
  • Similar to car batteries, the majority of marine batteries supply 12 volts DC. Car batteries are rated in cranking amps (CA) or cold cranking amps (CCA) while marine starter batteries may have a marine cranking amp (MCA) rating. Quality deep cycle marine batteries will have a reserve capacity (RC) rating that indicates how long the battery will operate before losing power. Marine batteries are also capable of more frequent and deeper discharges than car batteries.
    
    
    
  [h=2]Car Batteries[/h]
  • Car batteries have a greater number of thinner lead plates than the marine type, so they discharge a high initial current to spin the starter motor and crank the engine over. Once the engine is running, the alternator recharges the battery to run lights, ac/heater, radio, etc. When maintained, car batteries can last for years and be charged repeatedly. However, plate damage can occur if the battery is discharged more than 20 percent of full capacity for an extended period, or sits for weeks without being used.
    
    
  [h=2]Marine Batteries[/h]
  • Marine batteries are sturdier than car batteries to prevent damage from shaking and vibration caused when a boat rides on the water surface. Although sturdier, most marine batteries are not intended to be discharged more than 50 percent capacity, compared to deep cycle batteries, which can be discharged 80 percent continually, without plate damage. Good quality deep cycle marine batteries are recommended for boats equipped with trolling motors, radios, bilge pumps, navigation lights, GPS/fish finders and other electrical devices.
    
    
  [h=2]Safety[/h]
  • Whether working with car or marine batteries, use caution when handling or recharging. Lead acid batteries pose dangerous shock, burn and explosive hazards, which is why professionals use gloves and face protection. One common mistake is accidental shock by shorting out battery terminals with metal wrenches or jewelry. Although less common, another serious concern is skin burns from sulfuric acid due to battery explosion resulting from improper charging. Ventilation is very important. When working with lead acid batteries, always seek professional advice, if unsure, rather than risk injury.
    
    

Read more: Marine Battery Vs. Car Battery | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/about_6500143_marine-battery-vs_-car-battery.html#ixzz2BHTBwSxs
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I agree right down the line.
I have spent way too much time trying to explain batteries to boat owners.
They would have solar cells, a wind generator, an alternator from the auxiliary diesel, and a shore power line with a 110v charger, all hooked up to 2 battery banks, and wondering why it does not work.

 

I guess you can't blame them for finding as many ways possible to keep their batteries charged. but in many cases, they think just because they show full voltage on a gage that their batteries are fully charged and in great shape, but in reality it's only a short lived surface charge they're seeing and the batteries soon die out. Repeating this partial charging over and over calcifies the batteries so they then replace them and it all starts over again, same process, same result.

 

I use Optima yellow tops also and got 6 years out of the last set of them. I am very hard on batteries too and I hoped my solar panels keeping them peak charged most of the time will get me 10 years out of this set.

 

Dice,

Very neat setup and the first one I've ever seen on a tractor.

Can you briefly explain the benefits of the panel and how it's setup electrically? I take it you have the panel, and a controller. Does it trickle charge the battery bank or at a higher level?

Guess what I'm asking is the panel beneficial for all the in cab creature comforts or just for battery maintenance and longevity or both?

Thanks.

 

They are 2 - 100 watt panels I bought off of e-bay 3 years ago. Under full sun they produce around 15 amps @ 18 volts. I use a Morningstar Duo Charge Controller to mainly maintain the batteries while parked. They make it possible to leave the fridge on alot longer without worrying about being able to crank the truck.

 

I was JUST thinking of solar panels, (thought it would have been an original idea, where the sunroof cutout is on a columbia)

Dice, do you mind saying the cost of such a setup?

 

3 years ago I spent around $500 for the panels, $125 for the charge controller, around $180 for the linear actuator to raise up and down that is not really needed and probably around another $100 in aluminum and wiring. Did all the work myself.