I don't know nearly enough about trucks to offer technical advice, Robert, but it seems to me that you are thinking right. You have done/are still doing your research. You have identified what you want and need and come up with what seems to be a realistic plan to put it all together.
I did the same kind of thing with a 3/4 ton for a fence and deck company I used to have...built what I wanted because I couldn't find one to buy. People thought I was crazy until they were on a site with me and saw the advantages.
Would You?? Or am I thinking wrong?
Discussion in 'Heavy Haul Trucking Forum' started by ROBERTCADAMS, Feb 14, 2014.
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HeavyHammer,
Thanks for the advice,I am listening!! I have done this type of work for many years,the only thing different this time is that I am trying to figure out how to have a truck with a sleeper larger than a Pete 63" unit. The post I made about going 80 empty was simply to give the person talking to me about rear end ratios an ideal that I didnt want a ratio that was geared so low that I would be doing 45M.P.H. on the interstate empty. I am not saying this will work,But I am asking for reasons why it want,Just because nobody does it like that is not a good reason to me. Some people never consider wanting a sleeper larger than what comes from the factory. There are a lot of guys I talk to that get all excited about a big sleeper thinking it is something,Because they dont have any expierence around one. I have reasons for wanting the Big Sleeper,And I need the driveline of the truck to do the job without constant failure. A reason of "Just because noboy does it that way,This is how we do it" doesnt work for me! I like to know why it want work and why everybody does it that way. I appreciate your comments and respect them, It is true I have been off the road for a little over 2 years,But there is no way the whole industry could have changed 360* in that short of a time period. I personally have seen and talked to guys in the padt that haule heavy-wide-and ling with a big sleeper truck.Every one may not have one,But those guys wanted something larger than a factory sleeper and were making it work. There a many trucks with big sleepers leased to Landstar I know for a fact and they pull step deck and RGN,So it can be done,Does everybody do it that way NO, But I want to try to figure out how to do it that way. I am in a position to purchase what I need and If I need to go with a new truck and sleper to get what I want at the right price then I may have to go that route. I was just thinking if I could buy the truck with the sleeper and other accessories on it I wanted with the power and trans. I wanted,then I couls double the frame and up the rears and go on. People change wheelbases every day on truck,it's just a matter of how you do it,So flip axles,Some cut and splice frames,I don like either of those option so I want to replace the frame rails with new ones that are one piece. I know it can be done,I have personally been to the factory in Vermont and picked up new frame rails and crossmembers for a Heavy-Duty Wrecker I built.It was a previous road tractor with too short of a wheelbase and I didnt want to splice or flip,So I bought new and had them installed.On that truck the 12,000# Steer and 40,000# Rears was enough to do the intended job. For this application I need something more than what I can find. All I am asking is WHY cant I do it this way and I would like another answer other than because thats the way we do it. Thats all I am saying.
I want to thank everyone for there comments as I appreciate them all and am taking them into consideration. In my opinion the main reason there are not more Big Sleepers In different parts of the industry is because of the initial cost of one. Company's dont care about the driver,So they are not going to spend the extra money to make the driver more comfortable. I dont work for a company,Never Have And Never Will, I will starve first. If the DOT regulations for a legal Sleeeper Berth on a truck was a piece of Plywood laying on the frame rails with a piece of foam rubber on it,Thats what the company would provide and that is what most drivers would accept. I was told long ago by my Grandfather,That to be succesful you either had to be, FIRST,GREAT or DIFFERENT!!!! I can not do some of those in this situation but can others,So I am going to take all the advice I can get from people that know and make my decision and take what comes after that. Again thanks for the comments and keep them coming. And Heavy Hammer I would love to sit down with you and talk over dinner any time as I am sure I could learn a lot and Matbe? teach you a thing or two LOL!!!! -
I'm waitin for word on a possible load out of NC...that puts me running through TN. If it comes through I'll let you know and we'll do that.The issues I'm seeing in your plan are just to compounding to try and discuss in this type of forum...I don't like typing that much.
I'm sure you may be able to teach me a thing or two as well, I do not know it all and alway try to learn where I can. I also like to show those that want to learn what I know, and what I believe is the best way to do the things I know.
For those that would like to see just a brief idea, here is just the beginning...
I know there are lots of guys running big shacks for Landstar and others...but they aren't pulling what I consider to be very big trailers. Once you get to 8 and over with jeeps and boosters you are involving length. And length becomes the enemy. Depending where you plan to operate, over 110' puts you into pilot car length and in many others including your state 2! My estimate of your units tare and length (based with a 4 axle >330"W/B & a 3+2 wagon, your listed wants) you would need 2 pilots in NC, TN, & 1 in KY, IL to destination to haul this load I'm waiting to hear on. I own a Cali 9 axle (3 axle KW w/Studio sleeper and 2+2+2) and I only require 1 pilot in NC & TN, then I'm on my own the rest if the way. This would probably more than double what my pilot costs would be as IL is by far the longest distance state on the route. That would make it nearly impossible for you to have competitive rates. Or you will be giving away any chance at profits to the pilot car.
There is so much more in the small details that I'm just not going to type out.
In my humble opinion, you have a decision to make...the monster sleeper or the trailer/type of work. Like I said they're just incompatable. If your dead set on the truck, stay lighter and make it a 4 axle tractor and stay at a maximum of 7 axles with a tri-double wagon. Or you want the big work and your dead set on the 2+3+2 wagon and you have to keep your truck about 250"W/B to keep it at a reasonable length.Last edited: Feb 16, 2014
281ric, daf105paccar, Cat sdp and 1 other person Thank this. -
HeavyHammer,
Thanks for the help,We are on Valentines vacation for the wife and want be home for several more days but I would like to talk with you,I understand the typing thing. My e-mail address is robertcadams1963@aol.com if you will send me your phone number I will call you. I have been doing more reserarch and thinking about everything we have been talking about and I always planned to buy a new trailer, So instead of what I was thinking before I may cut back to a 55 ton RGN with 3 axles and a 1 axle booster,Then the truck will be a 4 axle,Making me a 8 axle rig all the time and then I am looking for a used tandem axle Jeep so I can go 10 axles if needed. After thinking I am going to price a new Glider Kit Truck and a New Big Sleeper and see what the price difference is between buying a 4 year old truck and spending a ton on it to make it what I need versus buying a truck that is built the way I need it with a New Sleeper,That way I am comfortable I can get the 20 years out of the rig with proper maintainence and rebuilds as needed that I am looking for. The reason I am shooting for 20 years is I will be 70 and it will be time to retire. One thing I could do even though I would hate to would be to change truck and go with a set back front axle KW. It would cut my needed wheelbase a little as well as my over all length and by buying a new Sleeper Box I could design it as I like it and maybe cut a few inches off of it and still get everything I want in it. I will know soon the cost difference of buying a new Glider and Sleeper versus a used truck and upgrading it to my needs. Something else to take into consideration is with a new truck there will be a warranty as with the new to me/used truck there is none. That could be worth some serious money considering what I am Planning to do with the unit. as far as Escort Vehicles go, I have 2 Surburbans that are equipped and waiting to go back to work and get out of the shop from before,So if I need Pilot cars I have that covered. Looking forward to your number Hammer so I can call you and thanks again for all the advice,This is what I was looking for someone that is still out there that knows to help me. Because I dont claim to know it all,if I did I wouldnt have to ask any questions.
Robert -
Wouldn't it just be easier to use a tractor with a normal cab and get a ride with the escort to the nearest hotel? The reason heavy haul companies don't do this isn't because they don't care about the drivers, it isn't because they can't afford to pay it up front, it's because it's just not worth the complications. You will add tens of thousands of pounds to your empty weight, greatly reducing your capacity, and about 10 feet to the total length which is easily an extra escort everywhere you go, reduce your turning radius, etc. I can't think of a single benefit to the heavy haul aspect of it. You aren't only paying for a more expensive truck, you're paying for it two or the times over with the extra miles, extra time, extra weight, extra fees, extra delays, lost loads, lost capacity. Earlier you were talking about a 60 ton 1/3/2/3/1, with a pete, 20k front, 46k rears, a triple frame, cat engine, 18 speed, auxilary tranny, lift axle, and a whopping 144" sleeper (plus the apu, plus the water tank, plus the water heater, plus the sewage, plus the minifridge). Do you realizeyou would be right around 80,000 tare weight empty? Every mile you run would need a permit, no night travel in a lot of places, I'm just not understanding it. Is having a shower and a mini fridge in the cab worth the headache of dealing with all of these complications? Quite frankly I don't think it's rational, at least not with a heavy haul truck. Hitch a ride with the escort to the hotel, catch a cab, buy a motorcycle, really anything will be easier than having to deal with such a sleeper. If you absolutely must go with this kind of truck, get a dry van where your loads gross 25k each and forget all the heavy haul problems that come with the sleeper! Before doing all of this work I would quite literally gut the cab of a standard 60" sleeper, construct a ramp and use an ATV to take me to the nearest hotel.
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Robert...NC load is booked & I'm en-route. I'm a few days out of TN, I'll shoot you an email for your phone # tonight.
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I pull nines (2+3+1) with my 2013 KW T660, Cummins 550 w/2050 torque, 18 spd, 3.58's on lowpro 22's, 244" wb with 86" studio, single 3/8" frame, 65,000 lbs empty. Just my two cents.
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You mean to be looking for something like this? Why not spec a new truck from these guys?
http://www.truckpaper.com/listingsdetail/detail.aspx?OHID=5058661
http://www.truckpaper.com/listingsdetail/detail.aspx?OHID=4552683
http://www.truckpaper.com/listingsdetail/detail.aspx?OHID=5098425
http://m.jenkinsdieseltrucks.com/
I have driven a Western Star and they are nice trucks. -
I have a 350" double frame Pete 359 w/122" custom, 425B, 18, 3:90s and it FLEXES a lot! Getting ready to add a lift axle just to be able to load in front of the mid turn on the trailer.
It's a major pain even with 6 or 7 axles because it's longer & heavier than "normal" making it tricky at times with permits etc...
That said, I spent a few months last year in the spare while making some upgrades and was reminded that IT'S SO WORTH IT to have my creature comforts.
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