Taking the plunge. My journey as an O/O.

That’s the real trick, while luck plays a part, good maintenance and planning is key, at increasing the odds. Knowing when to upgrade. Maximizing the use of a Truck. In my case, I’m keeping it forever. Really doesn’t start to really pay off till halfway through the first overhaul, around 1.5 mil. due to other maintenance. The idea, that once a Trucks paid for, or once I get the overhaul, etc. takes a long time to realize the payoff. Much better to keep upgrading, each time putting you in a better position. I’ve seen it done successfully. It’s harder to do with a used emission truck. But if fuel economy is better, and a O/O stays busy, it should still work. Farmer bob had some bad breaks. Murphy’s law as they say. Still hasn’t done too bad. All he has to do is keep busy. They have the work available, and without anything else to take up his time. He can simply run a few extra miles. I did it for 8 yrs. Leased to a Company. All I had to do was keep up the Truck, and Drive. Didn’t get rich, at .88 cpm, and $1.20 gal fuel. But ran an avg. 2900 wk. in 5 days. Drop and hook. Stopping home throughout the week. Had a good little system, nice and steady. I’d clear $2000, after fuel, pay myself $800. The rest covered overhead, including health ins. Plates, fuel taxes, were covered. All I paid was 2290, bobtail, and ins.on the Truck. But I had to run steady, year round. 3 weeks off in summer, 3 weeks at Christmas.

 

Sure why not? If I need more I take more? During my 10 or 12 weeks a year ( more this year) I’m hanging around the house not working, still $800 a week. That’s my W-2 money. Separate check for draws and per diem. If I drive more than 80k miles a year I start getting upset.

Everything I own is paid for or generates its own revenue so why more money? Heck the wife works 1/2 day on Saturdays. Takes care of heath insurance for both of us.

Better be able to spend $100 k a year how ever I chose if I’m going to stick my neck out being an O/O. So far so good.

 

I give you about 6 months before you're broke best way to start as am owner op is to buy equipment cash specially older with those detroit 12.7 engines no egr no def

 

So if he buys a pre emissions truck, he wouldn't have to worry about things like batteries and tie rods? Out of the many times he's been in the shop, it sounds like it was only related to emissions once.

 

I have read this thread since the beginning and I will
Offer some advice from the outside-

since the OP is not going to perform repairs (and I don’t blame him) then he would be best served to go the new truck route.

it will smooth out his cash flow and for the most part give him cost certainty on his truck costs.

assuming a slightly above minimum down payment - he will be in for $2500

and with the warranty will spend little to no out of pocket repair expenses.

yes I know emissions, in the first 3 years
He is likely to avoid any issues. The have substantial experience here - so all you per-emissions guys can save your posts about this and the related down time. I am ordering my 3rd consecutive new truck and haven’t lost 2 weeks of work for repairs in 7 years.

trade every 4 years

that being said, the OP needs to fix his revenue side. Either you can run your business or you can’t. Take all the time and energy and money you spend on repairs and channel that into running your business. Find a mentor or hire a back room clerical service.

it is painful to watch the OP take arrows from all the I repair my own equipment guys who tell him that is the only way. It is not the only way - it is their way.

hope this helps, if it doesn’t you got it for free and probably paid too much.

 

What kind of trucks do you buy?

 

I do agree wholeheartedly about buying brand new but I doubt your going to get in the seat for $2500 down.

Maybe $25000 and great credit.

Insurance will be another $5000 a year

 

I think he meant 2500 payments after putting down a healthy deposit

 

Heavy spec Western Stars

monthly see below