What if it Snows?

7.1 running 50k pound loads & a lot of two lane and Ozark hills.

 

Thanks, that’s good to know. I’ve heard of using a power strip surge protector when using a cheap generator vs. a pure sine wave generator. I guess that’s where the idea came from. since my inverters aren’t pure sine. Im at a loss on electrical stuff, They part I can physically see, no problem, it’s the theory’s that apply, and testing that boggles my mind. I’m glad you said something, always looking to learn.

 

When I bought my Truck, the Guy said it only gets about 5 mpg. I was able to get 5.8-6.2, depending on weather and idling. Then it was 5.5 forever. Before the overhaul it was 4.5, with a leaking ata and bad injector. Typically a Classic gets .5 mpg less than a Century or Columbia. So, it should get at least 6.5. I don’t know if it’s the bigger sleeper or what. The Truck just gets bad economy. Though it’s already broke 6 mpg. Hoping it jumps up, once it’s broken in good. 7 would be heaven. Lol

 

Thus Volvo that I currently drive gets between 7.2 and 8.2 almost constantly even in pretty decent winds... 2 days ago it got 5.8 because of horrible head and cross winds... That should tell you hiw bad the wind was the day I shut it down because of the winds.

 

Ok the subject of cheap generators. Part of what makes them cheap is the actual regulation of power. Also this happens on most any generator that is not a backup generator for a home. The head ache is. Unlike a inverter, there is no way to gauranty that you will get 60 cycles. The home generators that one gets from big box stores that look like a tan colored washing machine are wired to generate 60 cycles. Virtually all other generators out there purchased from honda / powerhorse / coleman / harbor freight / whom ever you get it from. Are nothing more than a motor with direct drive to an alternator that cranks out 120 or 240 volts. The 240 volt alternators you use one "leg" of the power and get 120. They dont have any frequency controller on them. At most the upper dollar is getting you a bigger motor and a bigger alternator. Turn the engine at 3600 rpm and the alternator creates 60 cycles. The cheaper (around $200) generators may not actually make 60 cycles. Sometimes they make 65 cycles or 58 cycles. Yet the power cord doesnt help.

Want to make the generator better? Have it make 12 volt and then have it power an inverter. Hence why some generators from Honda are now "inverter gensets"

 

Wind like speed has a progressive affect on economy.A friend of mine had a 97 377, with a 550 Cat. That Truck got 7.5 mpg, must have been the aerodynamics. It was unheard of for a Cat. Biggest problem with my 12.7 is torque. My last one got excellent mpg’s running light loads, flat land, 62 mph. Once I started running the hills, and heavy, it dropped a lot. I usually run Luggers on the drives also, probably doesn’t help.

 

I had one of the 2000w Chinese Honda knock offs from Wal mart. It didn’t last long at all. Now I’ve go a 1800w wen. Got it brand new real cheap off Craigslist. I use it to run power tools at the Truck. And as a back up at home if ever needed. I’ve decided not to bother with a gasoline generator on the Truck Too much trouble. Too dangerous. A small diesel, would be nice. Yet to find an affordable one, less than 5k with electric start.

 

So, my question now is. Do I need or should I use a surge protected power strip for my Fridge, Coffee pot, microwave? As a protection that will kick in, before blowing the fuse on batteries? I’ve got a 100 amp fuse for the 1000 w and 150 amp fuse for the 1500w. Also have adequate cable sizes,for each, Rated for 1500w Max. And 2000w Max. I wanted the protection at the battery, but don’t want to be having to change it. I know a lot of people put a circuit breaker inside the Truck. That doesn’t seem to me that it protects the wires from the battery to the Truck. That’s why Im using the fuses at the batteries