Yoko16 ply steers. 22.5 standard width. Can't recall the numbers offhand. I bought them because I thought they would allow me to operate heavier on the steers in most states, but I was mistaken I thought my truck had 14k steer axles, but it doesn't, so the extra couple thousand in load potential is meaningless.
Not saying that the Yoko's aren't a bit better than the Bridgestones I am running now, but they cost more and don't give me any more options.
Thanks for the info about how the boards work at Landstar.
Taking the plunge. My journey as an O/O.
Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by Farmerbob1, Jan 7, 2019.
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Last edited: Jun 5, 2021
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Most other states only care about the ratings of your axles and steers. Whichever is rated lower is your limit. So, with my axles rated for 12350 lbs, tires of a higher rating are pretty meaningless. -
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As long as you are on the interstate, it’s federal limits. The individual state rules come into play once you leave the interstate. So, if your just passing through on interstate, never an issue. Your wheel and axle rating set your limit.
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Landstar is your best bet if they will take ya. Better apply now. It takes a long time to get set up IF they take ya. No reason not to apply to all three and see which ones will even take ya. Then choose from there.
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Gotta love it when you get parked at 10 PM in paid parking, and find a trailer tire with a chunk missing from it.
Then the early morning service appointments are taken, but they can fit you in at 0230.
When I pulled out of my reserved spot at 0230, a lot vulture grabbed the spot in 10 seconds.
I hope this tire change is quick, but if it's too quick, I am going to have to get the TA to chase someone out of a paid parking spot so I can get some sleep tonight without waiting for the 0400 crowd to roll out.
I am very glad I only need 4 hours sleep.Jarhed1964 Thanks this. -
Well, Dropped off my truck on Friday at the local shop I decided to try. They said they would start work on it on Monday. Late Tuesday afternoon they sent me an estimate for work to be done which did not include all the work I asked to be done.
I told them to do the work, but that before they tried to do any troubleshooting on computers/wiring, they must replace a wire I know is either bad, or will be bad soon. My Right steer ABS wire has two bulges in it, and I'll be ###### if I'm going to pay them to troubleshoot before replacing it, because that wire absolutely will be replaced before I get back on the road, and all the errors I have been getting are either DPF or related to tire rotation. Traction control, ABS, OnGuard, L2 engine light, and intermittent warnings from my Peoplegarbage machine, etc, could all be caused by the truck not properly detecting tire speed.
Beginning to look like I'm going to need to find another shop near Columbia, SC. -
I hope you are still able to make some money in between the repair episodes.
The equipment safety is a must. There are, however, non safety related issues that perhaps don't require immediate action. For instance, if I see the 'check engine' light I don't rush to any nearest shop...if I did, I'd be much poorer than I am. I just look up the code and try to make an assessment if that's a real or false alarm. Most of the time, it does not require immediate action or it simply becomes an inactive fault. Also, I have ABC/TCS light on every now and then (common Volvo problem)and every time it ends up being some wire or sensor. I fix it, then it is good for a few months and it still pops up sooner or later, especially when it is wet. When it dries out it disappears. Sometimes when I look for a bad wire, I can't find any. Sometimes, even if there is a heavy rain, I don't have those lights on at all....Some of these things are hard to fix or explain.
Another example, I had an error of crankcase pressure too high. I replaced the filter and the sensor and it was good for a few weeks only but then the same engine light and the same code came back. I decided to ignore it and run like that. After a few days running like that I discovered that the hose from the engine block to the crankcase filter separator was raptured. I only replaced the hose and the problem disappeared. It's been 3 months since then without that code. Why the heck did it disappear, I only replaced the hose...the old hose did not look like it was jammed or anything like that?
I am not implying that is all right to run a sloppy truck or neglect the maintenance.
I guess what I am trying to say is that at some point when a truck has its age and mileage, it is hard not to compromise with running it while there are some trivial ' to fix' things. Of course, it is everyone's call to decide if they can run it like that and tolerate/recognize seriousness level of engine warnings or decide how long they can wait. At least for the time before you find someone who actually does know how to fix it.Last edited: Jun 17, 2021
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