Today my truck would not let me put it into gear if I was at a dead stop. I haven’t measured free play yet but it doesn’t seem excessive. I always have floated the gears, and if needed to downshift at times will give the clutch pedal a quick press to get it out of the higher gear I was in, and can no longer do that either. Got the truck to a family members house by putting into gear before I turn the engine over. I have receipts from previous owner saying the clutch brake is a 1 piece. Going to see if I can adjust it tomorrow. Any suggestions? Anyone got a good mechanic in San Antonio, TX area if I end up needing to get it into a shop to get back on the road?
Clutch brake? Clutch?
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by Dallison, Sep 19, 2021.
Page 1 of 7
-
-
Trucking Jobs in 30 seconds
Every month 400 people find a job with the help of TruckersReport.
-
Adjust clutch, if no good - cut out and replace with 2 piece.
I recently had a one piece give out in less than 2 years, and I’m gentle on my gear.RockinChair, Diesel Dave and Rideandrepair Thank this. -
Rideandrepair, blairandgretchen and Bean Jr. Thank this.
-
Sounds like clutch time. I bet money you have a dislodged/ broken clutch spring causing clutch drag. Check clutch brake squeeze with a piece of paper at pedal full depress and make sure the brake doesnt spin on the input shaft. If the adjustment is good and you have good squeeze, it needs a clutch.
Never determine if your clutch is in adjustment by the amount of freeplay. If the freeplay is none or near none then we know it needs adjusted, thats it.Ezrider_48501, black_dog106, Dave_in_AZ and 7 others Thank this. -
Ta, have them do a clutch adjustment, cost, 50$, if that doesnt do it, or even if it does, suffer through it (truck off, into gear, start truck) till you get to your shop or home.
1 peice clutch is a pain, if self, just go straight to the torch before trying anything else, you save tons if time and frustration. In a shop expect it to be a 4+ hr shoprate because its such a pita laying under the truck and having the torch rain molten metal on you.Rideandrepair Thanks this. -
Since you float clutch brake is only needed first start or to switch into reverse. I’d get it adjusted then if still bad ride it out until I’m home. PS most clutch brake failures are from guys pushing clutch too far in at lights and wearing them out needlessly. That’s what my first instructor told me 25 years ago I rarely have clutch issues. A friend kept having clutch brake problems and got mad often at his mechanic until I sat passenger in his truck one time and told him why he burned his clutch brakes , that ended his streak of failures.
Rideandrepair, T.Rucker and olddog_newtricks Thank this. -
Rideandrepair Thanks this.
-
I've always torched them out with a straight tipped torch. Has anybody used one of these? I don't do many clutch brakes any more, but if I did, I would try this.
Dave_in_AZ, Rideandrepair and jamespmack Thank this. -
I've heard some people say that they cut a slot in the end of 1/2 inch extension and put that up against the bottom of the brake and spin it and that will break it apart. I've never done that but I've heard that.
I know people use torches all the time but myself I don't want any hot globs of metal flying towards my clutch or my release bearing or having all that heat up in there. If someone else does it, for all you know they might end up cutting your input shaft a little bit if they're not careful or they're not real great with the torch. And it's not a spot where you can see very well either.
I'm in favor of the two piece all the way.Rideandrepair Thanks this. -
Adjust clutch first. Get 1 1/2”-2” freeplay on pedal. Report back. Lol
black_dog106, Dave_in_AZ, Dino soar and 1 other person Thank this.
Trucking Jobs in 30 seconds
Every month 400 people find a job with the help of TruckersReport.
Page 1 of 7