I missed Boxcarkidds post. He hit the nail. Best advice. I did my tie rod ends recently on my car. It’s crazy squirrelly, especially when roads slick. Toed in too much. Pulls left. I use it for short trips. Alignment and tires soon.
King pin causing alignment issue
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by mitmaks, Jan 25, 2021.
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BoxCarKidd, AModelCat, spsauerland, Goodysnap (and several more I'm forgetting, at the moment, being brain dead, I apologize) bring invaluable information to the rest of us, less blessed. I and believe many others appreciate EVERY mechanical tip you give. THANK YOU Men!!!
Last edited: Jan 26, 2021
D.Tibbitt, stuckinthemud, rollin coal and 8 others Thank this. -
I agree, always good advice. They and others have saved me quite a bit of time and money over the last few years. Along with a wealth of information. Thanks to all.
D.Tibbitt, stuckinthemud, InTooDeep and 7 others Thank this. -
When this happens each wheel is trying to steer opposite Of the other.
Left wheel is trying to pull you left while the right wheel is trying to pull you right.
Also with this condition at the end of the week you will have a very sore shoulder because 11 hours of your day will be spent moving the steering wheel back and forth to counter act the continuous wandering.shatteredsquare, BoxCarKidd, Hammer166 and 2 others Thank this. -
Rideandrepair and Hulld Thank this.
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Your fingers will also hurt when you wright the check for new tires. Get that checked out ASAP.
haycarter, InTooDeep, tommymonza and 1 other person Thank this. -
Personally I have never done kingpins so cannot comment on what could have happened during the actually job.
However, looking at what would be involved, I would hazard a guess that it could be possible for the toe to be off.
The tie rod may not have been adjusted but with the correction to the steer knuckle alignment with new kingpins/bushings I guess it could be possible that the toe could change.D.Tibbitt and Rideandrepair Thank this. -
You can set your own toe in, especially if you have a flat concrete floor that you can do it on.
Measure how far up from the floor to the center of the Hub. That will give you the middle of the wheel. Cut a piece of wood 2×4 whatever to that size. Go to the front of the wheel and mark the sidewall go to the back of the wheel Mark the sidewall.
Get a tape measure and measure from the same spot on the tire to the same spot on the other Tire at the height of those marks. Then do the same in the back and compare.
If you have to make an adjustment block the back of the wheel make your adjustment tighten the tie rod so you don't lose your adjustment and roll forward and backward a few times and back up to the block. You should still be in the same level position with your marks. Check again and continue as needed.BoxCarKidd, Rideandrepair and tommymonza Thank this. -
Any slack in the steering ( even what we do not see ) is taken out as the truck rolls forward. That includes tire scuff and king pins settling. That is the way the truck goes down the road. Always roll it forward. After each adjustment roll it forward at least 1/2 a revolution of the tire. A tire bar under a drive tire works well and never use the brakes to stop it.
I do not totally understand the 2X4 method but I would do it like this. Get a 2 or 3 foot 2x4 and drive a 16 p nail through it close to the end. Then bend it at a 45 degree angle toward the short end of the board. Jack the wheel up and have one person turn the tire while another holds the board. Only want light pressure against the tire so the nail scribes a true line on a major tread. White paint on the tire first makes it easier to see. You can also put two thumb tacks in the tires and snip the heads off. That is a good quick easy check method. I prefer to scribe them.
If using a tape measure never start at the end as it can throw you off. I prefer to use the 10 inch mark. If you cannot look at it directly behind and or in front of the tire use a light and mirror if needed. I shoot for 1/32 toed in. Specs on many are 0 through 1/16 in. A 1/4 toed in is better than 1/16 toed out. If using a tape measure never use the end as it can through you off. Being slightly toed in allows for for future wear and a bit of fudge factor built in.
I have turn tables and such but that is how I started out in company shops on a slab.
That Dino program sounds like he has it set up to be a one man show. Never heard of that and that is an interesting idea.D.Tibbitt, haycarter, rollin coal and 2 others Thank this. -
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