Some numbers for new O/O

Very nice, im actully out of waubay so if you ever need help in the area feel free to hit me up. I know a lot of good shops and equipment places in the area ive worked with for years now i can point ya at. And yea if you know where to look and who to ask youed be shocked how good a deal you can get on a truck.

That said dont focus only on MPG. While its a valid voable strat. My PERSONAL advice is you want a flexable rig more then a hype efficent one. If your setup is flexable and things go tits up where you start then you have options. And a lot more of them then a hyper focused truck will have. And keep in mind the better a truck is at one thing. The more it gives up in other areas. I.e a high mpg high roof truck with all the ferrings and low gearing and horse ks going to struggle as a rock hauler and may be inviable at all as a flatbed in some places due to height.

I only have a moment while i fuel here so i cant do a writeup on what i would consider a good starter rig. But jist food for thought.

 

Oh my god, thank you for the charts.

Is this more or less what's happening? It also said to never spec beyond 1550rpm cruise in the same document, I'm not actually choosing a 375/1450, it's just an example of the curves.

The transmission and rear ends need to be specced to get the horizontal flat lines as close together as possible? Is 1350 ideal in this?

 

I've probably seen you driving around, then. Not a ton of Lonestars in general, let alone haulin rock specifically. Small world!

Rock hauling is explicitly something I've considered because every so often you guys (and side dumps in particular) completely take over the roads. 27, 54 tons!

A wet kit is usually just a bit too much start up cost for me, however, and I figure I'd do better learning the business side of it reefer or dry van initially. Plus I've heard movin dirt and rock is somewhat seasonal. A manual transmission is pretty much required for that, right?

Let me know if anybody you know in the area ends up needing an additional o/o and is willing to take a newbie. It's something I'm interested in. I appreciate the advice!

 

I have a Mack anthem, mp8. It runs 795-80k all the time. Usually 7.0-7.5 mpg.
7.5 is no wind 68 mph.
7 if fighting wind.
Kw t660. Isx cummins 6.5 mpg running no wind 5.8-6 with wind. Same run.

 

Yep you are getting it. Also there is a formula that you need to understand for how much Torque is needed per LBS you are driving to really maximize the way to use the charts. Once you understand what weights you are gonna pull you can bring it all together for the best MPG's. If you have Facebook or X account I would follow Joel Morrow. He is a Volvo guy and helps spec's equipment and runs unbelievable MPG's in his set ups. Henery Albert is the guy to follow on Freightliner stuff. I do not know anyone that is big on Kenworth stuff for MPG's. I am a Volvo guy and can answer a lot of questions about them if you need some help on that stuff.

 

In this example it depends on weight and gears RAR's. For something like my set up being it is a 500 HP and 12 speed auto with 2.79's I like to be 1100-1350 for most my loads. 68 MPH is 1350 and at the top of what I want to run doing dry van freight. I can run 75 mph but it is not idea. I average 8-9 MPG's depending on weight and location. Life Time on truck is closer to 8 with hardly any ideal time since I have a EPU. Summer time I average 8.7 MPG's and winter time it is closer to 8.2 MPG's.

 

Will do and if you ever see a white lonestar with orange BONES lettering on the doors that would be me lol. Also talk to the international dealer there in sioux falls. Ive used them a lot since i got this rig and they know their ####. Cant speak for buying a rig off em but i trust their mechanics. Dennis at peterbilt of norfolk ne is also top noch for buying a rig and their shop is still top tier.

 

Honestly, I'm looking really close at that Burgundy one. 13 speed manual... I still have the restriction but it's the perfect truck to get it lifted in. Room on the frame for an APU (I'm glad to see you had a good experience with Green APU, that was one I was looking at pretty closely because of FSC), clearance if I pivot into oilfield or dirt/rock haulin, a removable fairing on top of the sleeper to get it shorter if I need to, EPU in the meantime, etc etc etc. It might be six years old but it's pretty low mile.

Looking at a power only company right now that delivers trailers.

I wonder if because of the CDL ruling, I wouldn't be able to get a CLP and then back to a CDL after the road test. It did they that ALL CDL issuance was being paused until the processes were fixed...

Time for another work week. But I'll get around to more math with fuel efficiency later.

 

I say if you are new, you should try to be out at least 2 weeks , and home 2 days. Then pay the driver (you) , only $500/week. Consider this as a training period when you first become company driver as you are new again being an owner operator.

 

Businesses operate like that right before they close forever.

Buy them a penny a piece and sell them a dime a dozen- make it up in volume.