Shop Frustrations

I don't think Swift would have a problem sending the truck to the dealer if it needed to go. The problem is with a driver walking into the shop and TELLING them it needs to go to the dealer without them checking it out first.

I'm just not even going to worry about that particular problem anymore, at least until it becomes a problem again.

Right now, I'm more concerned about the battery issues that I still seem to be having, even after waiting 2 days for them to get a part they said was bad.

So let me ask everybody a couple questions concerning their trucks:

1. How many drivers have 12v electric coolers in your trucks? And do they run all night?

2. How many drivers have any assessories plugged in and running overnight?

3. How many drivers use the Webasto bunk heaters on your trucks? If you do, does it run all night or just a few hours?

4. Of the drivers who answered yes to any or all of these questions, do any of you have a problem with the batteries draining overnight down to the safety shut-off?

This is the problem I've been having. The only thing I have on all night long is my Coleman cooler. Sometimes when I wake up, everything is shutdown. Sometimes I still have power, but shortly after turning on the light, the warning starts beeping. I won't turn the bunk heater on until I wake up freezing, then that only lasts about 20 or 30 minutes and it all goes dead.

I've had the batteries "tested" twice and both shops said they were good, although Memphis claimed to have found a problem with the cable/bars that connected the batteries together and replaced those. Still have a problem. Another shop smugly told me that there are 7 computers on that truck that run 24/7 and a cooler will run it dead overnight easily. He also said on one occasion that the bunk heater will kill it, then the next time the same guy said that once the heater fan gets going it feeds itself and is no longer a drain. He said he once had a truck sitting outside all day long with the bunk heater going and never drained the batteres.

I'm just wondering if other drivers are experiencing the same thing or am I stressing over something that is a non-issue. Myself, I think the batteries may be load-testing fine, but they aren't holding their charge very well. So they look like they are good, when in actuallity, they are getting weak.

 

Ok, let me paint this picture...You're given a 2009 Dodge Challenger R/T (or whatever dream car you chose) to drive. Even though it's a couple years old and has 270,000 miles on it, it's still in like new condition (other than the paint peeling) and runs like a champ. The only real issues you have with it are really minor issues and one of them seems to be a non-issue, judging by the other posts above. But it's clean, engine doesn't leak any fluids at all, and it doesn't smell like an ashtray or someones BO.

During one of the periods when this awesome car is down to get these minor issues looked at, you are given the option to keep it or take your chances with another car. Given the company's history, you could end up with anything from a brand new 2011 Challenger to a 1974 Ford Pinto that is barely hanging on.

The first truck I was issued here was just absolutely nasty. I think it missed going thru the clean up before it was set out for assignment. If it had been cleaned, someone needs to be fired. Aside from the sticky interior that reeked of smoke, it had a major air leak and the engine was blown. Thank God that truck never made it out of the terminal! My next truck was cleaner and in better shape mechanically, but still smelled of smoke and had some other issues. Then I got sick and lost that truck. When I came back, I was assigned yet another Volvo. This was in better shape and didn't really smell of smoke, but there was a funk about it that I could never really place. Not sure I wanted to. When I was told it was going to be 6 days before the shop even got to mine for front springs, my DM got me another truck, which I am in now. I know this truck isn't perfect, but it's close enough for me. No smoke smell, the interior is pretty spotless (and other than a need to sweep the floor right now, it stays that way), the only fluid leaks on the engine have been a couple minor coolant leaks that I took care of myself by tightening the clamps. It doesn't use a drop of oil...at all. If I give it up for something else, I run the possibility of getting a new Prostar or a 2006 Volvo with 600,000 miles, more oil on the outside than the inside of the engine, and smelling like an ashtray inside the cab. Like I've said before, they will have to fire me to get me out of this truck!

Now with all that said, judging by the responses to my questtions above, it sounds like the battery drain is actually normal. While I was waiting in the shop here in Columbus (more on that in a minute), I was looking at those folded white papers that say Swift on them. (Memphis has them when you first walk into the drivers lounge hanging on the wall). They are kind of like instruction manuals for different items on the trucks, like How to work the bunk heaters, or DOT inspection items, CB installations, stuff like that. One of the papers talked about this very battery drain problem. The bunk heaters only use about 2 amps and can run about 10-12 hours before running the batteries down to the safety shut-off. The coolers use 9 amps and will kill the batteries in about 5 hours. So it sounds like what I thought was a problem is actually normal.

Now, why was I back in the shop in Columbus a week and a half after spending 5 days in the shop in Memphis? Simple. While trucking along yesterday, my check engine light popped on, which of course is the first step in the regen problem. Great. But I had to stop for fuel, and when I restarted the truck afterwards the light stayed off and onward I went. This morning I tried to deliver my load in Hebron, KY. MY dispatch said to deliver on 4/2 between 02:30 and 14:30. When I get there, the guard says they are closed on the weekends and there is no one there who can sign my papers, plus I didn't have the needed appointment number to deliver. So I call Swift and they t-call the load in Columbus. On the way here, the check engine light comes on again. So I leave the truck running while I drop the trailer in the yard and run the bills inside, then drive over to the shop and get them to check it out. This time they are able to find a possible problem, got that took care of, did a forced regen, and I need to drive it to see if the problem returns. Hopefully this time, it's taken care of.

 

Since this regen problem has been an issue from the beginning, you might try talking to the fleet manager or terminal manager about covering it until it's fixed. Just a thought.

The issue that Columbus found with mine was a problem with exhaust temperature readings. The regen chamber has 2 temperature sensors, an inlet and an outlet, about a foot apart from each other. From what I was shown and was explained to me, these 2 readings should be on average within about 100 degrees of each other. What they first saw with mine was a large difference in the readings. The code that was set, gave a diagnostic instruction to check all the electrical connections on these sensors and repair as needed. So the mechanic rolled underneath the truck to where this stuff is at, fiddled around, then they backed the truck outside (and no, they didn't toot the horn!) and did a forced regen, after which the readings were back to normal. Now I just need to drive it and see if it has made any difference.

That really sucks that you have had so much trouble with your truck so quickly. Hope it gets better for you soon.