I might be wrong but aren't most parts between a manual and an automated manual the same? The only additional parts would be the computer, which every vehicle has, and the parts that I cause the clutch/trans to shift... Which only replace the clutch petal and stick.
Again, I am no diesel mechanic or even a hobbyist... Just rolling with what I have heard.
Automated Tranny Pros and Cons
Discussion in 'Experienced Truckers' Advice' started by scottied67, May 6, 2016.
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Skimmed through the manual didn't see anything about it. Manual talks about a 'creep' mode but I haven't figured out how to do that yet either. Did mention something about an eco coast mode which will not work with jakes engaged.
Had to back into a dock yesterday and it was terrible, herky jerky pain in the tail. Takes about 2 seconds to change from reverse to forward then another 2 seconds to move once you put your foot on the go pedal. -
The gearbox itself is exactly the same. The clutch, transmission control unit, wiring harness and gear selector are the extra bits. Wiring harnesses eventually get eaten by salts etc so probably every few years will need replacing. TCU's last like ECU's but may need a reboot or upgrade occasionally. Clutches wear, it's just the result of all that friction and amt clutches are a bit more expensive but every 500k miles or so theres not really any great difference in cost of ownership.
They do act differently, they can be awkward backing and if they do go wrong you can't move. ( it's worse mentally because you know there's actually nothing wrong with the gearbox it's just the computer won't talk to it) but most of the time they're great.
I remember whenmy manual clutch literally exploded in Des Moines a few years back it wouldn't move either though!Dave_in_AZ Thanks this. -
My 2000 Mack had 978K on the autoshift when we traded it off, the clutch was replaced at 670K, as far as I know the truck is still going strong. My '09 autoshift (truck in my avatar) had 579K when we sold it to a farmer, the clutch was replaced at 360K from premature failure of the internal springs, the rest of the trans was in great shape still. It all comes down to how it's driven and maintained.Toomanybikes, Dave_in_AZ and MidWest_MacDaddy Thank this.
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Every once in a while starting out, release the brakes and put my foot on the foot brake then put into D (rive) and it will not go into gear. What I usually have to do is put in in R(everse) first then back to D.
Another thing in the manual says the vehicle likes to roll backwards so watch out for that when first in gear or at a stop sign/light. Manual recommends setting parking brake, to prevent rolling back then mash down on the go pedal and release brakes. This doesn't work because any time parking brake is set, transmission is automatically set to N(eutral). so what I have to do is hold the foot brake with my left foot and push the go pedal and when it takes forward torque, let off the brake and go. -
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I do believe that the DD15 has this option but it has to be turned on via the DDEC software. It's not a standard feature like on the Volvo with the "Auto" setting on the engine brake control.scottied67 Thanks this.
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As for backing and other maneuvers, you just have to get used to the way it operates. You get used to feathering the clutch, now you have to feather the accelerator and get a feel for how much it will take to get r done lol.
scottied67 Thanks this. -
That's just the cruise control. I could set my 670 to do that, you can even expand the range. It was a manual 10/OD.
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Yep that wasn't an I shift only deal. Volvo incorporated the engine brake stalk and auto control when they released the D11/13/16 EPA07 engines.
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