CONVERT FROM ELECTRIC TO HYDRAULIC DRUM BRAKES ON 7K AXLES?

Your brake controller ought to have an adjustment on it to back them off when you're empty (so they don't lock up) and turn them up when you're loaded (so they help you stop). You really don't want the wheels locking up at ANY time, so it's best to adjust the controller to make them work without locking up.

 

Apparently not if it's locking up.

Electric brakes have no idea as to how hard you're applying the brakes. The most common type works off a time delay. Step on the brakes, and over the course of a few seconds the brakes gradually apply to the preset value. Doesn't matter if you're standing on the pedal or just barely applying enough pressure to trip the brake lights, the trailer brakes function the same. The other type of controller is inertia-based, applying more brake pressure as g-forces increase. The problem here is you have to start braking for there to be any force to trigger the trailer brakes.

The only variable-pressure controllers I've ever seen for electric brakes are the ones that require the tow vehicle to have air brakes. They tap into the air system and regulate the electric signal sent to the brakes based upon the air pressure applied to the tow vehicle's service brakes.

As for hydraulic brakes on the trailer, the ONLY way you're going to do that is with electric/hydraulic brakes. The electric brake controller sends a signal to a solenoid, which pushes a piston to create hydraulic pressure. To "convert" to that is going to be more work than it's worth, and you'd be better off trading your trailer in for one set up like that from the factory. Not only that, but the brake controller you have may not even be compatible with them.

Your best bet is to learn a little more about how your electric brake controller is designed to work and figure out where to set your brake controller to minimize wheel lockup (hint: 80% isn't right for an empty/lightly loaded trailer), and when you're loaded watch what is going on far enough ahead of you to avoid "panic stops".

 

I'd be more concerned if the wheels were locking up. A skidding tire has broken traction, and doesn't offer the same braking power as a rolling wheel with brakes applied. If your brakes are locking up when empty or lightly loaded, you have your controller set wrong. If you don't know that after 20 years of being an ASE certified mechanic, it explains a lot in regards to your post.

 

The brakes don't have to lock up under a load in order to sufficiently hold the vehicle during a tug test for the DOT. The DOT won't ask you to drag the trailer with the wheels locked up, either. To have the brakes set to lock up while braking makes the brakes unsafe to use in nearly every situation, as you'll never be able to properly apply the vehicle's brakes without the trailer tires locking up increasing the risk of a jackknife.

When I've got the gooseneck horse trailer hooked up and it's empty, I turn the brake controller down to about 20% and I can still feel it slowing me down with light brake pressure on the pedal. If I've got 4 horses inside, I'll turn it up to 70% and it provides excellent braking with no tire lockup. If your trailer brakes aren't doing their job, it isn't because they are 100% electric vs electric/hydraulic. As an ASE certified master mechanic, though, you should know that and be able to fix it. Apparently you can't, though, which brings into question the validity of your claim.

 

NO.

The Only way you'll solve your Problem is to not overload It.

Or get a real truck & Trailer with Real Brakes & stop sending a boy to do a mans Job....