This has about 900k miles on since overhaul so Im guessing its been on since then.
Do these manifold bolts tend to break? Usually I heat manifold bolts with torch and never break them.. but i have not done this type before... has long spacer and long bolt, making the ability to heat it with a torch and actually affect the threads way harder.
Would it be easier to use a cut off wheel and cut all the heads off, remove manifold, then i can easily get to the base of the bold and heat it and remove them with a pipe wrench?
I just want to avoid them breaking off flush or having to use a drill.
Detroit 12.7 Exhaust manifold removal??
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by Green461, May 23, 2024.
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I’d use a torque wrench set to 20% higher than the bolt spec, and see if they budge first.
Apply some heat to bolts and try again if no budge.High Stepper, Rideandrepair and Jordonh Thank this. -
I've seen maybe 1 or 2 exh manifold bolts broken on a 60 in almost 30 years workin on em. Not really an issue.
None of those were broken during removal, and i've removed hundreds.
As long as you can get on them solid, a 1/2" impact and a 17mm socket
BTW, they are prone to crack behind the turbo flange.Last edited: May 23, 2024
Rideandrepair, jamespmack, BoxCarKidd and 2 others Thank this. -
I can't recall ever extracting one from a series 60 either. Cat yes, N14 was normal rust issues.
Hammer on the head with a 3/4lbs hammer then hit with impact.Last edited: May 23, 2024
Reason for edit: Hammer, not hair. Lord this phone trys to make me look worse than I am.Bean Jr., Rideandrepair and Big Road Skateboard Thank this. -
Thanks all.. sounds relieving..
Bean Jr. Thanks this. -
I have only seen maybe 1 out of thousands broke on a Series 60. ISX is the worst for broken studs.
little cat 500 Thanks this. -
Wow, I was expecting a fight, easiest thing ever to come off. Manifold looks perfect, it rings so no cracks.. however the slip joints leak like mad. Do they make a seal for them? Be nice to machine grooves in and put a couple gapless piston rings in it..
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I went with Full Tilt after trying both other options.
Money well spent -
I found some 2.5" bore cast iron piston rings on ebay , 4 for $16. The ends overlap so its a total seal type ring. I will cut some grooves in each pipe, put 2 rings on each joint. use ring compressor to install pipes together. I dont know why they were not like this to begin with. It will be impossible to blow out or leak. -
I've got to much to do to eff around with it
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