Eaton 10spd splitter procedure

I changed the paddle/splitter on my 13 speed to the old style, splitter knob with separate plunger. The new style has an interlock so you can't split in the lo range. Yet if I forget to put it in direct, it doesn't split. Why do they have the interlock if it's not necessary?

 

You could likely hear air change in the knob but the transmission should not change.
We had one that the top plate was bolted down on the plunger for the slave valve. It would try to change ranges at any speed in any gear. The extreme noise when preselecting would make one do something else really fast.
Lots of good post but to be clear. If you are in neutral and change from high to low range at speeds higher than you can shift up to high while progressing up through the gears you are murdering the rear sync.

 

That's how Super 10's got such a bad rap. Guys would kick them to neutral at fairly high speeds and let the stick move back to the center gate, which initiated a range shift. And a few of those led to a fubar'd range synchro and a tranny stuck in high range.

 

Sounds like transmission woes a brewin',,,the 10 speed was the most standard transmission, in all forms. Not much could kill it, as company trucks went through a slew of drivers, all trying to destroy it. Shifting the range selector at 60 is a good way to start.

 

I get what your problem is. You're flipping it down when you know you will need to be in the low range with the stick move to neutral. I did it too, and I kind of do still, but I make a conscious decision not to move the stick to neutral until I'm going 10 mph or less. After your question, I paid attention. Essentially in low range, there is little reason to wind it up above 1,200, that is about 15 mph in 4th on my truck (13 speed). If you are going faster than that in 6th gear, stay there.