How do you adjust the trailer brakes?

Have those on my Pete.

 

As much as I don’t want to admit it, Canadians have no excuse for not knowing. As far as I am aware it’s part of the curriculum to learn how to and to adjust a brake. My info is from before the implementation of the “melt” rules, maybe they made it easier?

As much as I want them to stay out of our business, I do believe it is past time for the government to step in and tell the industry that it is time to require disk brakes on all newer equipment. It isn’t taking over voluntarily. For all the other problems that they tell us we have to have, why not disks?

As a side note, I must be too young. I have only seen one set of wedges in person. It was on a project truck and they said they were replacing them as soon as they could find a donor.

 

If you're not in the mood to crawl under the trailer to adjust the brakes, an easier way would be to just run a chain through the tandem wheels.

 

It's really ridiculous that they don't come with an Oh #### handle anymore. Those had so many handy uses, especially stuff like this or jacknifing. Now I guess nobody uses them, or just a few goobers that want to hang their crocs from them.
I had disk on the one truck I was driving from Long Beach to Denver and the LF caliper was binding so it caused my LF tyre to catch fire. The truck only had 44k on it. They said they see it from time to time and it's usually the Left. The caliper didn't lock or pull, it just dragged enough to get hot and once I saw the smoke it was on fire as I pulled over. I would really like to not go through that again.

 

Theres been lots of threads on the johnny bar. No one teaches how and what to use them for anymore. The last 20 years that handle was tug test only and hands off otherwise. Common sense would tell anybody who actually wants to operate a truck that that bar was always there for other reasons then checking a coupling.

 

Driving is a one hand job now. The other hand is for texting and video games

 

Mega carriers got rid of them so the driver (sic) had a place for his right flip flop up on the dash.

I actually remember one guy, post Jackknife, saying his 'theory' was correct that if you started to experience that situation, steer down the road and grab the trolley hard then you would stay up on the pavement instead of eating guardrail and going in the ditch and he shared this with the whole barn on his return. Your mileage may vary!

Years ago we had a list of nicknames and wash rack 'trueisms' like:

Owner Operator Disease = Um grabem trolley brakes saves mine...

 

On mine with the drums, I usually raise mine off the ground. If I do, I tighten the slack adjuster without pulling the round pawl outwards. It only goes one way, and that is to tighten the shoes against the drum. To loosen, you must use something with a slot in it and pry the round pawl out so the square adjuster in the top will turn the other way. I then back them off until the wheels turn free and it's roughly 1/2 or a little more, but not less. I will reposition my square tool on the top of the slack adjuster so it is at a 90 degree or 180 degree so that it's easy to see when I have backed it off a half turn. I align the tool so it is straight forward (usually) then gently pry the pawl out and loosen the square drive ratcheting thing on top until I get a half turn or a little more and the tyres turn freely with no drag. On the four brakes in the rear, I do it the same way, but I go between 1/4 and a half slightly tighter. These are ASA's though so I really don't bother with them except after a brake job. If I find one way off, someone has messed with it or the ASA is not working. They are cheap and easy to replace. Once in a blue moon you will see one where the shoes are really worn and the S-cam has rolled all the way over and they won't adjust or the shoes drag. I really prefer drums. The brakes jobs are not as easy, but when disk brakes need something other than pads, it often means they need the whole works. The pistons seize or come all the way out and wipe out the rotor or the shop uses Chinese parts and the clips don't fit right causing the brakes to run too tight. Disclaimer: I have had a couple bad expensive experiences with Bendix disks. I know a lot of people that have had no issues with them

Lo siento. I'm done now!

 

Yes and no. Properly balanced brakes and proper technique and there's no need to ever use it while driving. 40 years and I've never used it unless I'm playing and tossing the trailer around. (Yes, you can do donuts in a tractor-trailer.) The last thing one should think of using in limited traction situations is a device with poor feedback.

My admittedly anecdotal experience is that guys who don't often deal with winter weather think they need it, guys who drive in the snow and ice on the regular don't mess with it.

 

Or for making flat spots in the tyres.