Inverter Size - Schneider Guidelines

Microwaves can be purchased with different power requirements. I use a lower power one that only uses 650 watts, heavier models may use up to 1100 watts. I just bought a convection single cook top that has seven power levels up to 1800 watts. My inverter is a 2000 watt model. You definitely must use an inverter that is bigger than your largest appliance you are going to use. An inverter of this size can require almost 150 amps at 12 volts to operate, so I use welding cable from the batteries to power it.
I realize you have limits placed by your company. Just thought you would like some helpful info. Some fires have been started by people using under sized inverters or wiring.

 

Rightn until you arent safe with whatever..... saw a burnt up truck once at our yard in charlotte about 4 years ago. Just the cab and sleeper. Now I cant say what started it but the driver lost everyting in it and schneider lost a working profit earning vehicle.

 

MAybe if these comps would install 2000 watt inverters in their trucks drivers won't have to sneak and use propane cookers to cook a real meal away from home. They can install safety switches so that they won't have to worry about them overheating but they "cost too much"

 

Valid point. But as far as the inverter question goes, I don't know how much better the quality of food can get if you are relying on the max power of a 300watt inverter. Warmers and 12v getting pans are options but sizes will be small. At least with a portable burner, your choices of food are limited to anything you can cook on a single burner. But if it's against company policy, better stick to truck stops, and buying canned food. Enjoy that though

 

I use a propane grill, microwave I have a 32 inch tv a Blu Ray player and chicken lights.

I just wanted to mention my chicken lights.

 

Schneider Guidelines and the laws of physics might not agree with each other.

 

Any fuel powered stove is also prohibited.

To the OP, buy the 12v lunch box cooker. It's not as fast as a microwave, but it will heat to 350*. Every truck stop has them, although you can save a few bucks buying online. I have used mine for almost a year and a half with no issues. Buy heavy duty aluminum foil to line it with and throw it away periodically. Buy the foil loaf pans at Walmart for 88 cents for three, not the 3.99 for three at the truck stops. With them you can heat soups or chili. I buy the frozen skillet meals for two and heat them up over two days. They usually have meat, vegies and pasta. I also buy frozen stuff like hot pockets, corn dogs, burritos for variety.

The precooked stuff I just lay on the foil lining, turning it over halfway through.

Now you may say you can't keep stuff frozen. That is true, but it doesn't need to stay frozen. You can keep those initially frozen items in your cooler or ice chest for several days without worry.

I have something that most company drivers don't have. A refrigerator. A real, thermostatically controlled, (freezer if I want it) refrigerator. Not the thermoelectric cooler that only cools a set temp below ambient. It has a 45 qt. capacity, runs on 12 volt or 110 AC, and is very efficient. If I turn the setting down, it will cool to 0*F and keep ice cream frozen solid. It holds enough food for a week plus of not going to the truck stop or restaurants, unless I want to. If you wanted to eat more healthy than I do, fill it with fruits and vegetables. It sits on the floor between the bed and the passenger seat, next to the cabinet.

I keep it set to just above freezing, where my drinks are ice cold and those initially frozen items will stay frozen for about a day. Then they thaw out and are merely well refrigerated. I keep milk for my cereal for 2 weeks plus. I keep mayo, turkey and cheese for sandwiches for lunch. I keep my breakfast bars in there to keep them from melting in hot weather.

How much does this cost? Well, that's the catch. These fridges cost anywhere from $450 up to $1000, depending on size and brand. That seems like a lot, until you realize that you are now spending less than $5 per day to eat, versus $20+ with restaurants and truck stops. It would pay for itself in less than a year. I have talked to drivers that have replaced their thermos coolers twice in a year. Three of those and the fridge is paid for. They are much more reliable than the coolers.

The higher end brands are ARB and Engel. Those are very reliable, and expensive. I have had an Engel 45 quart for about 6 years with no issues. I paid about $750 for it. I use it for camping out of my pickup. I used it in my tractor, until I could buy a second on to dedicate to it, as I was tired of swapping it between vehicles. These fridges aren't light. These draw on the order of 2 amps while running.

The one I have in the tractor now is a Whynter 45 quart. The same fridge also goes under the Edgestar name. They are identical. These aren't quite as efficient and low draw of the two above, but they work well. I got it new/used for $400. Someone had bought it for camping, then realized it wouldn't fit their vehicle like they wanted so they sold it at a loss. They bought it from Home Depot online. This is what I have: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Whynter-45-qt-Portable-Fridge-Freezer-FM-45G/202555696

Look around online, or you could do like I did, and watch Craigslist for deals.

 

I had thought about doing this... A 1000w inverter would power most anything I'd need.

However, my batteries are underneath the cab and inaccessible unless I remove the side fairing.

Other option is to use the posts on the side of the chassis for jump starting the truck. My concern being the gauge of the wiring and how much current will be pulled.

 

Since those posts are directly to the battery you should be ok. If I were you I would buy 2 or 4 gauge wires. I know that some international dealerships (parts department) you can buy the wires that are already precut with the terminals already attached. The wires that come in the box with the inverter can often be too short if you try to hook them up from the outside. if you look on the floor on the driver side behind the seat some where near where the battery is sometimes there is a premade hole to fit wires for an inverter to the battery. You often have to pull up the insulation to find the hole. But when I had my own truck I drilled this hole a little bit bigger because I used 2 gauge wires (which is safer). Sni won't like you drilling holes in their trucks, that won't do. Now remember you need to use an inverter that has more watts than the item that you are going to use. If you are going to use an 1000 watt item you are going to need an inverter with 1500 to 2000 watts.