Load straps inside a dry van?

Discussion in 'Questions From New Drivers' started by tarmadilo, Apr 29, 2019.

  1. JC1971

    JC1971 Road Train Member

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    Couldn't get a strap on it because the load was sitting against the sides.
     
  2. COBB2070

    COBB2070 Medium Load Member

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    E-Tracs are (usually) aluminum strips that run from the front of the box to the rear. Usually one low and one waist height or just below depending on your height, some have 3 rows. The ratchet straps associated with them have special locking fasteners on either end, not hooks. If you have then in your box, get at least one good quality strap and use that instead of a load bar.
     
  3. COBB2070

    COBB2070 Medium Load Member

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    Also know as concrete form nails
     
  4. Powder Joints

    Powder Joints Subjective Prognosticator

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    Yup form nails
     
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  5. Buckeye 60

    Buckeye 60 Road Train Member

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    load locks are not going to do much good unless you have the ends that lock into the e track van walls are to thin straps are much better at securing a load if you dont have e tracks you have to improvise and use a hammer nails and 2x4s most trailers have e tracks anymore. ......... if you happen to get good at securing loads theres some money to be made
     
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  6. Dennixx

    Dennixx Road Train Member

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    I have some of these from when I used to haul my motorcycle in a dry van w a lift gate.
    Works w any decent strap.


    yellows-golds-cargo-boss-tie-down-straps-bungee-cords-194100-64_1000.jpg
     
  7. Lepton1

    Lepton1 Road Train Member

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    Especially with ultralight trailers, if you use load locks that push sideways on the walls it will simply make the walls bulge outward. I did a lot of drop and hooks when I was with Swift, the vast majority of the time ALL the load locks were laying on the floor.

    One way to prevent trailer bulge is to place them as close to the floor as possible. Another way is FIRST use a strap from wall to wall as close as possible to the position you want to place a load lock, THEN place the load lock; the strap will prevent the walls from bulging outward.

    Word to the wise if you are only going to use straps, get edge protectors. This is to prevent crushing cartons if the channels are slightly behind the back of the pallet. If you don't use edge protectors that 2" strap will start sawing on the carton as you bounce on rough roads.
     
  8. Ridgeline

    Ridgeline Road Train Member

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    Well seeing I have to mitigate cargo claims with drivers, here is the thing ...

    OP take the time to learn how to properly secure things in your trailer and what equipment is what. You should have refused the load until the company teaches you what is what and they provide the equipment.

    Maybe this needs to be another section on the CDL test?

    Load locks fail a lot when they are used in place of Shoring Bars. Shoring bars are specific to stopping forward movement of a load under deceleration stress.

    Hook straps made for small trailers and light loads will fail, so in place of those cheap crap, spend the right money and get the right strap.

    The E-track base are all metal and are made to distribute the forces, using hooks on them give a single point of contact and prone to failure.
     
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  9. Buckeye 60

    Buckeye 60 Road Train Member

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    those work good if you have small rope to go with them .... mostly light duty stuff like windows or doors or something longer than a strap to keep against the wall. ..... I havent had a claim or refused frieght in over 5 years .... mostly because I take the time to tie stuff down and dont play nascar on the curves and ramps
     
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  10. Dave_in_AZ

    Dave_in_AZ Road Train Member

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    You want the ratchet ones as well, the cam type don't work nearly as well.

    I've got 35 on my truck lol. About another 20 of the cam type. I give the cams away now.

    Good dry van set up you may use in 30's on occasion.

    10 to 12 on a load isn't that uncommon.
     
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