mercer transportation

TruckerPete1990 · Jun 21, 2017

CJndaTruck said: ↑

i sure did. Hard to pass on that rate.
Click to expand...

I turned the first round down they reran with higher rate. Then I found a better paying load lol.

CJndaTruck · Jun 21, 2017

TruckerPete1990 said: ↑

I turned the first round down they reran with higher rate. Then I found a better paying load lol.
Click to expand...

Ahhh, well my board access is very limited so I'm pretty much having to negotiate with agents. This ended up being on of my worst weeks ever. A shame because my rates are very good.

Highway Sailor · Jun 21, 2017

Chickadee said: ↑

@Highway Sailor also if you do what I suggested above and still have problems, you may have inadvertently left the mileage radius. You can't have a number in the box if you are choosing multiple states (max of 10 states)
Click to expand...

I think my problem was I had US in country of origin. I removed it and I can get back on.

thaistick · Jun 21, 2017

spyder7723 said: ↑

Remove the valve cover. If that's a century or columbia you habe to get the air cleaner housing off to get the valve cover off. Np you don't need to remove the upper radiator pipe and its best not to. 4 15 mm nuts hold the filter housing on. You will want a wobble extension for the bottom 2. Use youtube to find some videos that explain valve over lap. Remove the two jake brake assemblies.. make sure you mark which one goes in the front and the rear if they are not marked, this is extremely important putting them back on in the wrong position will lead to catastrophic engine failure. Replace the 12 bolts and spacers and torque the rocket arms back down in the correct sequence. bar the engine over(or have someone bumping the key) till you get a valve set at the over lap point. Use a set of feeler gauges, (the valve clearance will be on the trash on the valve cover) loosen the lick nut with a 9/16ths wrench and tighten the adjustment screw with a 5/16ths(or was it a 9/32nds?) wrench. Repeat for all 24 valves. You can usually do 2 intake and 2 exhaust in the same crank position. Mark them so you know they are done and bump it over again and do some more. Repeat.

Side note: the beautiful thing about a 60 series... its an over head cam. You can simply look at the cam lobes and see which are in the "off lobe" position and not worry about watching for valve overlap. But don't do that. You won't always own a 60 series so you should understand the concept so you can do it on your next truck.

Get the right injector height tool for your engine and set the injectors while you are at it. Its the same thing except instead of sliding a felt gauge between the valve and valve tappet... You slide the height tool over the injector. If you Google a picture of a detroit injector height tool you will see its a square flat block with a pointed rod sticking out. The point goes in a tiny hole in top of the head beside the injector. adjust the injector till the block just slides over the top of the injector.

Adjusting valves and injectors is a "feel" type thing. The feeler gauges should move freely, but not too free. No two people will ever adjust valves to the exact same spec. We will always be a thousandth or two off from each other. Its just not a perfect science. The key is to have all your valves adjusted the same. So say it calls for .208 on the intake, your "feel" might be .209 and mine might be .207. that's ok. You just wouldn't want to do 3 cylinders and then me do the other 3. You want them all equal. Make sense?

So after the valves and injectors are done, you remove those bolts and jake spacers. Put the put the jakes back on and torque them back down in the right sequence. Careful that engine does not roll over until everything is torqued down or your valve clearance just came out of spec again. Adjust the jakes in the same way as the valves. Put the valve cover back on, replace the filter housing and rubber boot going to turbo and you are done.

Oh you will need an extra deep 12 pt socket(12 mm i think) for the rear and front rocker arm nuts. You can either male it by welding 2 sockets together, or ordering one from apex tools. Think it was 30 bucks.
Click to expand...

spyder7723 said: ↑

Remove the valve cover. If that's a century or columbia you habe to get the air cleaner housing off to get the valve cover off. Np you don't need to remove the upper radiator pipe and its best not to. 4 15 mm nuts hold the filter housing on. You will want a wobble extension for the bottom 2. Use youtube to find some videos that explain valve over lap. Remove the two jake brake assemblies.. make sure you mark which one goes in the front and the rear if they are not marked, this is extremely important putting them back on in the wrong position will lead to catastrophic engine failure. Replace the 12 bolts and spacers and torque the rocket arms back down in the correct sequence. bar the engine over(or have someone bumping the key) till you get a valve set at the over lap point. Use a set of feeler gauges, (the valve clearance will be on the trash on the valve cover) loosen the lick nut with a 9/16ths wrench and tighten the adjustment screw with a 5/16ths(or was it a 9/32nds?) wrench. Repeat for all 24 valves. You can usually do 2 intake and 2 exhaust in the same crank position. Mark them so you know they are done and bump it over again and do some more. Repeat.

Side note: the beautiful thing about a 60 series... its an over head cam. You can simply look at the cam lobes and see which are in the "off lobe" position and not worry about watching for valve overlap. But don't do that. You won't always own a 60 series so you should understand the concept so you can do it on your next truck.

Get the right injector height tool for your engine and set the injectors while you are at it. Its the same thing except instead of sliding a felt gauge between the valve and valve tappet... You slide the height tool over the injector. If you Google a picture of a detroit injector height tool you will see its a square flat block with a pointed rod sticking out. The point goes in a tiny hole in top of the head beside the injector. adjust the injector till the block just slides over the top of the injector.

Adjusting valves and injectors is a "feel" type thing. The feeler gauges should move freely, but not too free. No two people will ever adjust valves to the exact same spec. We will always be a thousandth or two off from each other. Its just not a perfect science. The key is to have all your valves adjusted the same. So say it calls for .208 on the intake, your "feel" might be .209 and mine might be .207. that's ok. You just wouldn't want to do 3 cylinders and then me do the other 3. You want them all equal. Make sense?

So after the valves and injectors are done, you remove those bolts and jake spacers. Put the put the jakes back on and torque them back down in the right sequence. Careful that engine does not roll over until everything is torqued down or your valve clearance just came out of spec again. Adjust the jakes in the same way as the valves. Put the valve cover back on, replace the filter housing and rubber boot going to turbo and you are done.

Oh you will need an extra deep 12 pt socket(12 mm i think) for the rear and front rocker arm nuts. You can either male it by welding 2 sockets together, or ordering one from apex tools. Think it was 30 bucks.
Click to expand...

Thanks for all that..... I've watched several youtube videos on performing an overhead (valve and injector adjustments) but you said something about jakes previously and I thought there was a way to adjust them...

spyder7723 · Jun 21, 2017

TruckerPete1990 said: ↑

Lol least you don't have damage. If your still in gary I'll wave as I go by hitting 30 to avoid tolls on 90
Click to expand...

Where are you headed to? If northern Ohio, i94 to 2 to 20 is the route to take.

spyder7723 · Jun 21, 2017

thaistick said: ↑

Thanks for all that..... I've watched several youtube videos on performing an overhead (valve and injector adjustments) but you said something about jakes previously and I thought there was a way to adjust them...
Click to expand...

Yes. You adjust the lash on them just like a valve. It's the last step when doing an overhead.

spyder7723 · Jun 21, 2017

CJndaTruck said: ↑

i sure did. Hard to pass on that rate.
Click to expand...

I'll see you there. Loading Friday?

spyder7723 · Jun 21, 2017

So my new empty weight is 33760 full of fuel. That sucks. Looks like an all aluminum trailet is in my future. Anne my mpg on the first tank was 5.5. That sucks much more. Gotta get that up.

Edit: Wayne was right, it cost 80%more to look good.

spyder7723 · Jun 21, 2017

TruckerPete1990 said: ↑

I turned the first round down they reran with higher rate. Then I found a better paying load lol.
Click to expand...

They reran it with 3 different rates. Heck if we all had held out by Thursday it may have been paying 6 bucks a mile.

HalpinUout · Jun 21, 2017

spyder7723 said: ↑

So my new empty weight is 33760 full of fuel. That sucks. Looks like an all aluminum trailet is in my future. Anne my mpg on the first tank was 5.5. That sucks much more. Gotta get that up.

Edit: Wayne was right, it cost 80%more to look good.
Click to expand...

Did you ever post pics of your new ride?

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