True and back in the cat days it was usually soot % that would start getting high. I used to run the Arctic cat oil (Rebadged Delvac1 synthetic) at 15k intervals without bypass. Shear was never an issue with that oil.
If I were to do again 20 years ago, I'd double the interval by using bypass filters to keep the soot levels lower with far better filtration.
Oil Analysis (lead and fuel)
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by God prefers Diesels, May 27, 2022.
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Rideandrepair, God prefers Diesels and blairandgretchen Thank this.
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The number on this sample is nothing extreme by any means but certainly worth watchingSiinman, Rideandrepair, God prefers Diesels and 1 other person Thank this. -
Different engine but one of Mack/Volvos tricks for 50-60k PM intervals is their significant filtration system and incorporated large bypass filter.Siinman, Rideandrepair, blairandgretchen and 1 other person Thank this. -
I use the Amsoil bypass filtration unit with a gallon size filter. But a bypass won’t help dilution issues.
I’m not KR stupid on the oil issue, it just makes sense to me to run oil until it’s shot - and I sample to be aware of other problems that may not be apparent.
“Change oil every 12k “ is foolish to me.
“Sample and change every 12k” - much smarter.
“Sample every 10k and change as needed, noting any fuel/wear metal/soot/dirt” - is the route I’ve chosen.
But I’m looking to keep this truck a while.Siinman, Rideandrepair and God prefers Diesels Thank this. -
Question on bypass filtration - right now, I get a pretty clear look at what's in the oil. But if I add bypass and centrifuge, and it clears up wear metals out of the oil, then isn't the engine still wearing, but now I've lost the ability to see it through analysis? Like if I add bypass, and lead drops to zero, for example. "Hey, engine is looking great!" Meanwhile my bearings are about to spin, because it's all caught in the bypass system where I can no longer see it. Is that correct?Siinman, Rideandrepair and blairandgretchen Thank this. -
Amsoil EaBP 120 is the one I use - less than $500, a lot cheaper and more efficient than the KR pumped brand, or the Kansas City based version with a messy filter change.
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As I understand, the bypass filters down to lesser microns than OEM filters do.
In my mind it’s filtering out silicon and soot, lead and copper are somewhat lubricants in themselves.
The larger particles are what causes damage?
Again - NOT a mechanic or physic majorRideandrepair, spsauerland and God prefers Diesels Thank this. -
Siinman, Rideandrepair and blairandgretchen Thank this.
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