Recognizing loose lugnuts

Compare it to all the others on all axle ends. All those old chassis are dangerous junk trash. You look hard enough and you'll see all kinds of things you won't like.

 

Still using wagon wheels, eh? At least it's a tubeless. I hauled a lot of RR wagons and theoretically, that lug, not the end in contact with the rim, the other end, it should not have a gap by the spoke, however, a tough call, as I've hauled many just like that with no problems, until the next flat, that's is. The rim hasn't slid, so it's not loose, and if you are ambitious, you may get half a turn, but I never really had an intermodal long enough to worry. I think you are okay.

 

Could you move the wedge?
Does the rail not have a service bay? Or were you not at rail?
CSX/CN/UP in Memphis had a way to fix lights/tires is why i ask.

 

Don't look loose. The thread that sticks past the end of a nut serves zero function in reality. Not all wedges, nuts, and hub studs are the exact same either, so judging off another set isn't definite either.

Better safe than sorry, but I'd say those are fine.

Next time hit it with a hammer and see if it moves.

 

Look for rust around lugs.

 

That's what I was going to say. Hit over the hammer and if the wedge doesn't come loose that's just how they are. It'll ride. Looks like junk though.

lol you can try looking at the picture.

 

That's easier on a Budd wheel, those "rust tracks", but on a Dayton style, it's not as easy.

 

That is perfectly fine. 2 or more rounds of thread out of nut and 1/4 to 3/8 gap on cleat is normal and acceptable. They only torque around 185 ft lbs max. on 5/8 stud. 245 on a 3/4 stud.

 

http://www.plazafleetparts.com/uploads/2/1/9/0/2190100/spokewheel.pdf