What is the best newer semi truck to work on yourself?

I am currently in the market for a new semi truck I am leaning towards western star only because I heard Detroit had the least problems but I’d like to hear y’all’s thoughts on this. I will be doing no more than 80k GVW also I do have an opportunity to get an older pre emissions truck (2000-2006) but I feel they are too old still deciding which to buy I have a good amount of capital to invest in but I want to know which truck with the same amount of
Maintenance would be the best business choice I would rather buy used

 

I would likely grab the pre 06 truck. If it has lowish miles, solid bones and not much cancer (rust) for a reasonable price then you cant go wrong for something you can wrench on yourself. Old is relitive. We still have rigs from the 40s and 50s rolling around that are as or more reliable then modern trucks.

Most of the modern trucks require special computers to one extent or another to work on and emissisons systems have a bad rap for a reason. That said in order from my PERSONAL experince cummings powered long nose trucks. Anything with a detroit, freightliners (this includes western star), older kennys, plastic eurotrash trucks (t680, 579, volvos ect) macks and internationals followed by anything maxxforce and paccar powered rigs dead last. But i only have extensive experince with long nose petes and my 579 and am a driver more then mechanic. So take that with a grain of salt.

 

12.7 S60 Detroit probably cheapest engine to rebuild, followed by Cummins N-14, CAT yellow paint parts will cost you more.

I started with a 2001 KW T2000 , at almost a million miles - guy I sold it to is still running - 1.5 million with no overhaul - the plastic held up ok, but I agree with @Arctic_fox that you're better off with a solid body to start with.

Currently 1995 379 with 12.7 - overhauled at 770k before I bought it, now 1.2 million.

You'll still spend a bunch maintaining, but entry cost will be less. Guys that buy brand new trucks still have the same or lower maintenance/payment costs as I do - I have no opinion either way, it's simply that when I started 9 years ago, I didn't have the capital to dump 140k on a new one. And that new cost is considerably more now.

I have an independent wrencher at $110/hour vs. dealerships charging $200+/ hour round here. I can do simple stuff, wrencher can do heavier stuff, and I have a very competent engine mechanic at less than $150/hour.

It won't all stay this way forever - which is why the smarter cookies on here have made plans for the next 10-15 years, and I will likely run this old POS till I find something else to do.

I know one guy with brand new equipment that hits $500k year, and another with a 1995 that hits the same, so it all depends a lot on your situation and plans.

Good luck.

 

Yeah I’m definitely leaning towards the pre emission Thank you for the great advice

 

Thank you so much for your help this was a very helpful response I am definitely looking into the pre emissions

 

When I bought mine, I was looking at a FL Century 2006 - a few guys said, "If you're going to go old, you may swell go pre-2004" - before the start of emission controls. You may as well shoot for the 1997-2003 range.

If you keep your ear to the ground around here, there's a few that may be fixing to sell/retire, that have very well maintained units. "Most" older guys that have older iron keep their rigs well maintained. Sure, may not be perfect paint and pristine, but have certainly been 'gone through' - and present less maintenance issues than newer - (2010-2020) units, for a similar price.

Remember, in the used market, the initial price you pay reflects little upon the ongoing maintenance cost. You can get hung up on a 5-10k price difference when shopping, and miss the bigger picture. It's a tool, so buy it according to the intended use, without regard to your personal tastes.

 

Yeah exactly! Well I’m looking at a 2006 peterbilt 379 Cat C15 and a 2000 KW W9 3406e both in the same price range just about it would definitely leave me with enough room to have a good emergency fund stored away

 

I started with cash purchase on the T2000 - $12,500. Financed the trailer on a personal loan at $30k. Had $20k credit card for the 'oh Dear" fund.

Not the way most recommend, but personal debt was close to zero at that point. Less risk on the personal side helps out a lot. It could have gone sideways, but it's worked out so far.

 

Wow yeah that was smart I’m jurist buying everything cash but I would like to get my credit score more prominent so I might put something on a loan at the right interest rate

 

You'll find that even if you set up an LLC and a business name - the credit availability on your business name will take longer to establish. It took 5 years to get a reasonable interest rate on a loan in the business name, versus using our personal credit score and putting up the equipment as collateral.

And that was back when interest rates were low. The current environment doesn't allow that.

Basically, this equates to "Skin in the game". The more adventurous would offer up collateral as their own house or land - we've always been very conservative on that front. The last thing I want is for the roof over my head to be a target , if things don't work out like I thought.