Ok the picture helped! So yes I see exactly what you're talking about now. So ok in that picture of your Pete that black rectangle(ish) box isn't a cover (because you took the cover off), but is part of the radar? Right? So when there's heavy snow or something and you drive out of it and need to clean off the radar, you can wipe down that black box and the radar should start working again, right?
I mean if that helped your issue and you haven't had any problems with it since, I think I'm going to have to try this as well.
When to move on from a company due to constant breakdowns?
Discussion in 'Questions From New Drivers' started by BeHereNow97, Dec 20, 2021.
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But it’s just a plastic cover that goes over the radar hole
I think it has torx screws? tge radar itself is actually mounted to the frame and not the bumper itself
Just a rectangle piece that’s maybe 6” behind the bumper
That cover I’m saying to remove is nothing more than cosmetic and has nothing to do with that system
If the radar gets snow or ice on it. It’s supposed to disable that system
Why clean it?
In those types of weather conditions you don’t want the cruise and all it will do is ice over again
In rain it has been no issue since removalBeHereNow97 Thanks this. -
That black box is the radar.
I have a Cascadia and mine is also cover less. I get a code once in a while but a quick power cycle fixes it. Not sure if that’s possible in yours.
I also have realized no matter what my foots still on the peddle, in case of sudden braking and I have to press it to override, which these systems are known for.BeHereNow97 Thanks this. -
If all that's wrong with it is the cruise control not working...I'd say live with it for now. There are a lot of drivers out here now that are shut down because a senosor for this, that or the other went bad, and has been on back order for months, and their dealership can't predict when they'll get the part because of major parts shortages. Be thankful yours still goes down the road, especially if it goes the same speed on the pedal as it does on cruise. My company has our trucks governed different speeds between cruise and pedal. I personally drive a Cascadia where the forward radar was overly sensitive and would throw the jakes on or slam on the brakes whenever someone was between 150-400' no matter how much faster they were going than I was, so the only way to keep it from doing that is keep your foot on the throttle or ride the clutch sensor...which screwes up the throw out bearing. The two previous Cascadia auto's I had used that stupid eco-coast crap where the cruise backed off the throttle way before you hit the top of a hill so you could coast over the top...again, the only way to override that was to keep your foot on the throttle. Believe me, you'll get use to it...I use to hate when I couldn't use the cruise...now I don't and my foot has gotten use to being on the throttle again.(when I 1st started, cruise control didn't exist in mechanical trucks unless you had a wooden stick wedged between the seat and the throttle pedal)
Last edited: Dec 21, 2021
blairandgretchen Thanks this. -
I have not seen a “broomstick” in decades…easy enough to make in a few minutes for what it is.
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Back when we started getting adaptive cruise control on our trucks, a car swerving over in front of you, sometimes it was just an overpass, it would kick out the cruise control. Sometimes it was clear blue sky out it would just kick out for no apparent reason.
We would have to pull over on an exit ramp and shut the key off for up to 5 min, walk around the truck or whatever, it would reset itself and take off and it would work again.
It was a pain in the ### but it worked most of the time!Oxbow Thanks this. -
Sounds like a real 1st World problem.
Coffey, Speed_Drums, Pamela1990 and 1 other person Thank this. -
Three employers in three years? I think it best that you either live with it or find a workaround.
Pamela1990 and homeskillet Thank this. -
Every night when I shut down for the night I take the key out of the ignition and put it on the nightstand by my bed in the bunk and I do not put the key back into the ignition until at least 10 hours (normally I like to take an 11 hour break actually).
Is that what you're talking about when you say a "quick power cycle" is taking the key out of the ignition for a set amount of time?
Because I do that each night for my 10 hour break. Someone else mentioned taking the key out for 5 minutes but that will not fix this problem because like I said, every night there is no key in the ignition for at minimum 10 hours.
I might be misunderstanding you though? If I am please let me know how to do a power cycle and I could try that if you're talking about something different than taking the key out of the ignition for a set amount of time?LoneRanger Thanks this. -
So when my cruise goes out I can only go a maximum of 62 MPH. That's a 3 MPH difference and that difference is HUGE and is costing me both time and money that I'm missing out on (probably about 15 - 20 miles less per day that I'm able to drive because of that MPH difference).
Anyways @GYPSY65 has really helped me out. I'm going to check this truck into the shop either today or tomorrow and I'll ask them about taking the cover off after they hopefully fix whatever this problem is. If they won't do it I'll just do it myself because at this point I need to start taking matters into my own hands to avoid constant breakdowns over the same exact problem.
I'm just very frusterated with all of this.Last edited: Dec 21, 2021
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