House fridge in my place needs almost 5000 watts to start from nothing. Then it will need about 3000 continious at 10 amps to reach set point finally settling down to a steady 6 amp draw and 2500 watts until someone opens that darn door too long.
I would not think of driving anything that big off a inverter.
Theoratically it's possible to chain inverters together a certain way (Phased) and double the output and hopefully half the heat. Theoratically we would have been able to run our home off the tractor during Gustav and Ike because we only had 4 points of power needs excluding the two motor equipped refrigerator. That one uses two of the 15 amp sockets off the wall.
The old house we had after we rebuilt the electrical system and placed 5 feet of 3 inch thick stranded copper between the service drop wires A and B mains into the main service box past the meter we were able to only use about 27 dollars worth of electricity or 240 watts per month if that. Some seasons of the year the central heat and air does not do anything and the bill drops to maybe 15 and 160 watts. Even though we had a new 16 seer heat pump put on. It's so huge that about 8 minutes of running will bring it to temp set point and quit for several hours.
Our computers were the secret. If they were running, one in particular was capable of raising the entire home 10 degrees F from 72 to 82 in gaming mode. Cooling that one requires a window in that room to be opened when winter temps were 20 outside.
Will a 2000 watt inverter power a regular size house fridge or freezer
Discussion in 'Experienced Truckers' Advice' started by supersnackbar, Sep 7, 2017.
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2500 watts will power anything that will run off a single household wall outlet. = 20 amps do be mindful that most inverters are rated for surge (startup load) and continuous load ratings are typically quite a bit less either way it should be fine. if you want to know for sure try it before you loose power.
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After all this, who knows, the storm might just make a bigger turn than the are expecting and miss my house entirely. -
OK let's look at this logically.
An average fridge consumes between 300 and 500 watts of electricity while running - that is at 120 volts 2.5 amps to 4.2 amps. Start up current will be at 8 to 10 amps at 120 volts or 960 to 1200 watts.
These are numbers i have on record for my fridge and my solar setup at my cabin.
So let's look at the other side of the inverter.
Just at 12 volts.
at 300 watts you will consume 35 amps (this includes the power consumption factor of 1.4 because we don't know what inverter you are talking about).
at 500 watts you will consume 58 amps.
at the start up of the fridge -
960 watts you will consume 112 amps
and the top end of 1200 watts you will consume 140 amps.
Now keep in mind that this is just numbers to give you a general idea of what you need.
But have to add this - the inverter that is a pure sine wave will run the fridge but modified sine wave may not. It depends on what you have, if it is a real pure sine wave or something else. -
you do make a point about pure vrs modified sine wave, sometimes motors do not like a modified sine wave. typically it tends to be variable speed motors that really don't like it. i have run mini fridges off modified sine wave inverters without issue. i have a 3500 watt pure sine wave in my truck now though.
flood Thanks this.
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